CorningWare / Pyroceram

[goldsilverpro]

I've used the pyroceram dishes quite a few times to incinerate papers. However, instead of a torch, I covered the papers with methanol and lit them. It took several applications of the methanol. At the end, when only a few glowing pieces of paper remained, I finished burning them with oxygen only from a torch, at very low pressure, of course.

At one place I worked, when I had a lot of papers, like several buckets full, I used a large stainless pan about 4" deep. To burn them, I covered them with a mixture of about 1/3 diesel and 2/3 gasoline. The diesel tones down the gas considerably. Here again, it took several applications.

Loewen, in his great book, suggests using charcoal starter, which might be the best idea yet.

When using any of these solvents, constant stirring and turning over the papers really speeds up the burning and results in a more complete burn.

 

[Harold_V]

I avoided the use of any accelerant, finding that simply heating the pan at high heat was adequate to incinerate everything I encountered. I'd use the torch at the end, to raise the temperature to the point where unburned carbon would ignite, just as GSP suggested. That was an excellent way to know when the carbon was gone.

In regards to using an accelerant, although not intentional, that was how I set my lab/garage/house on fire. I've related the experience before, but in a nutshell, one of my regular customers had submitted his polishing wastes for refining. At this point in time, my sole fume hood was made of fiber glass, which is not a good idea.

I placed the remains of his polishing wastes in the pan, plus the large plastic bag in which it was received. If any of you have incinerated plastic bags, you understand that they don't really burn. They get hot, and they turn to oil. Then they're all too willing to burn! You now have an oil fire. Unfortunately for me, I had had my wisdom teeth extracted that day, and didn't feel great. Set the material on the hood and then made the fatal mistake of going to my bedroom for a brief rest. Forgot about the incineration process. Not too long afterwards I went to kitchen, when I heard a noise coming from the lab. Quickly walked there and opened the door, to be greeted by thick black smoke down to waist level. Ducked down (under the smoke) and made my way to the fume hood, at which time I could see the entire hood blazing away, along with the underside of the roof of the garage.

I won't bore you with the rest of the story. Just learn that if you use an accelerant, don't leave it unattended.

Harold

 

[Palladium]

I'm using pyroceram as a catch vessel in my furnace for a crucible. I will have to shoot a video of it next time. The pyroceram glows red, but the flower patterns stay cooler and retain their features. Remember all Pyroceram is not the same because they changed formulas a couple of times. That looks like on of the newer ones. Does it have a "P" designation?

 

[jonn]

No P designation but it has Pyroceram spelled out in full. These were purchased the same day especially for a particular batch. Most of the work was finished in the first dish and completed in the second. The second dish did much better and the job was completed. I decided to burn a rag, old t shirt i was wearing a few months ago when i spilled some AuCl and used my shirt to epee it off the counter. It held up until the end when i turned up the oxy. Then it cracked right down the center. I think it had a lot to do with the fact that there was a gap in my ceramic wool creating a cold air pocket. Otherwise nice dishes.

 

[Geo]

I have one that I will get picture of and post. It's been red many times and white in spots a couple of times. It has a cornflower pattern and the letters are not printed on, they are raised.

 

[Topher_osAUrus]

I have seen in a great many posts people curious of what corning ware will work, and what wont. I am going to try to consolidate the plethora of information that I have found online.

This is thanks to Necromancer, who posted a great link that lead to another and another. I will do the shorthand for those who only want answers. And then the long of it, for those who have an insatiable quest for knowledge.

Corningware dishes that are made of pyroceram were manufactured between 1958 and present (yes, present. I will get to that). Alot of posts I have seen say only the P marked bottoms and PYROCERAM marked bottoms are the great dishes that will withstand hell and high water simultaniously. That is only a SMALL fraction of them. In fact, there are very few that cannot.

A brief history of the markings.
1958-59: embossed stamp
1960-61: blurry blue stamp (÷/- pyroceram)
1962-72: P-series stamping (other stamps began in this time frame also.)
1969-72: "For Range and Microwave" added to stamps
1972-79: the horrible hologram, almost impossible to see
1979-86: the block stamp

I will have pictures posted of all of these, they are ALL pyroceram and can withstand anything you can throw at it.

some here advocate the use of the Visions brand made by corning. While I personally use it in my kitchen.. I do not use it in my lab. Anectode below if you care.

If you dont want to know the nerdy stuff, scroll and look at the pictures, the last one that says STONEWARE is NOT PYROCERAM, NEVER USE IT IN LAB. EVER.


NERD ALERT:

Corningware was a happy accident in 1952/53 when Don Stookey had an oven malfunction, when he checked the temp, he thought it was ruined. Out from it comes an opaque beauty, in his haste, the glass dropped and surprisingly bounced....This lead the age of a new era.

Corningwares pyroceram became quickly put to use to defend our countrys borders and honor, by covering the nose cones of missles and helping shield the brave souls we blasted in to the blackness of space. In 1958, they marketed it (like many, MANY other of cornings GREAT inventions (from the lightbulb for edison, to state of the art bio-tech being experimented on today and literally EVERYTHING in between)

They initially were going to go with either the cornflower, or wheat, cornflower won out, but there are a couple great wheat pstterns. In fact, there are MANY patterns...

Ill post more in between later. But, in 1999 corning sold out, their buyer went bust, reformed as world kitchen, and started producing utter trash. They pushed the french white line but it was in stoneware instead of pyroceram...such a travesty..

Quick way to tell: rub your hand on the bottom,rough marks=kiln firing ring... Smooth...then thats pyroceram. Look at the bottom... Stoneware warns against use on broiler or microwave... Corningware can take a torch and keep smiling.

While here in the states, we stopped making it, in france they still yet produce it, and ship it back here now.

Im tired and losing my train of thought, so I will post the pictures, i hope this helps any one needing to know.

*why i dont use visions, there are some counts of it exploding, whether it was from small scratches causing stress fractures during thermal expansion, or the people just dropped it... I dont want to take the chsnce of losing values, so i still stick to pyroceram.

 

[Topher_osAUrus]

More markings, and types of corningware (only ket me post 4 pics)

Words or advice/caution.

Dont buy if it is chipped...not for lab use... Home is okay...but it will break if you sre incinerating and crushing in it.

The glass pour ripples on the bottom mean its the real deal...if you csnt find a mark...look in the right light for the hologram image.

There are alot of corningware freaks besides me out there...the percolator and other rare designs / items (lou mentioned a corning hot plate....THE BEST IN THE WORLD) they can be worth some big bucks.. I spent 11 bucks on 2 10 cup percolators that are valued at 150 bucks because of the pattern and fact of the recall.

I have a great much else to say, but it will have to be another time. I have some work to do.

Thanks for reading. This would not be possible without necromancer who posted this site initially

https://www.corningware411.com/ shane is brilliant with his knowledge of corning

Bluecornflower.com more based on the standard pattern
And
Corellecorner.com

More importantly, everyone here at grf. You are all gods amongst men.

 

[Topher_osAUrus]

Further breakdown of the letter codes for corningware pyroceram dishes.

A--post 1972
B--bufdet servers
C--classic elegance
CW--french white 2
DC--designer casserole
DO--cookmates dutch oven
F--french white
G--everyday gourmet
H--bake n broil platter
JCP--exclusive for (you guessed it jc pennys)
K--cookmates
KA--counter that cooks
L--flared, casual elegance
M--microwave cookware
MC--microwave casseroles
MCR--microwave cookracks
MW--microwave browners
N--rangetopper
P--1960-1972
PP--petites (cookmates, some petites only have 1p)
S--round saucepan
SK--electro skillet
SM--cookmates saucemaker
SP--cookmates saucepan
TP--cookmates teapot(some teapots have just the p or w or a)
TK--cookmates teakettle(same as above)
U--mystery letter
V--visions
W--wheat

If it is not marked under the lug(handle), or at the bottom (stamp, holo, or embossed), then you must be very wary of its authenticity.

Arcoflame is the label of the french (european in total?) manufacturer of pyroceram, I have only found a couple of these in thrift stores and estate sales, same thing, some have different designs, but still solid as a rock.

Dont get me wrong, corningware is not invulnerable, in fact i had one of my 10 in skillets break on me just a couple days ago when i was incinerating/grinding in it... In fairness, the handle had a chip in it, and that was where it failed...

The ones i have that are in perfect aesthetic condition have never broke...ever..

I have read recently that caustic in them will etch them, but i havent subjected them to that kind of torture yet (or ever).


Cleaning your corningware:

Some people baby them, non scratch pads, no dish soap... Bleh that.

You can use a scouring pad on them...they will be fine.

Best thing to clean them is the same thing that you should be using on your lab glass. Bon Ami. Its wonderful...barkeepers friend is also a great cleaner. Beyond that, if you have tough grey streaks in them (thats from metal sitting on them too long...the metal comes off on the pyroceram, as it is stronger than the metal) use weiman glass cooktop cleaner.

All of these cleaners can be found at your local grocery store....mine is a Dillons, i assume kroger would carry it as well as they are synonymous(i believe). Didnt find it in wallyworld though...but i didnt look to hard as i had already found it.

 

[Topher_osAUrus]

Thank you guys for the warm welcome... I have been a long time reader and have been refining now for almost a year (includong the 6 months i was doing acquaintance experiments via miss hoke's suggestion.) and became a member to share what little knowledge i had to contribute.

Additionally, the percolators and coffee pots are great... I am making my morning cup o' joe right now in one of the recalled obes. I have 2 more that i use to boil water on the burner directly for my sulfamic additions to denox.

The teapots are great to hold ice for diluting solutions and keeping the AgCl from going along for the ride (the lip is just the right size and shape... Man...did corningware know whats up or what?...like they were mind readers, 40 years ahead of theur time and then some..)

The microwave series of corning is excellent for incinerating... I particularly like the ones wjth the tin oxide layer baked in the glass (acts as the browner in the microwave....not going to give you any purple of cassius ...trust me) it transfers heat very quickly, and maintains it beautifully

Whats even more awesome about corning? They all have handles... Look in thrift stores in theur misc kitchen stuff, where they put spatulas and what not.. You will undoubtedly find at least s couple p series ones...

I love corningware...

 

[Daswolter]

Topher you seem to be the closest thing this forum has to a Corning ware expert. I have a question for you.

I have 2 corning ware coffee pots and was wondering if they can be used to evaporate sulphuric acid in them.

 

[Topher_osAUrus]

Topher you seem to be the closest thing this forum has to a Corning ware expert. I have a question for you.

I have 2 corning ware coffee pots and was wondering if they can be used to evaporate sulphuric acid in them.

I have used mine to concentrate sulfuric battery acid for my cell, but, i made sure....VERY sure...That it had no flaws...AT. ALL....

Hot acid is no joke... Hot sulfuric will not only ruin your day, but forseeable future.

But, let me ask a couple questions... What model coffe pots?
Percolator?
Drip?
Tea pot?

What is the number? Is it one of the recalled versions?
They had no screw fastening a worm gear type clasp in addition to epoxy... The ones without a screw, i would not use..

Sulfuric acid has a great affinity for water...even the water in old worn out adhesives (id be willing to bet anyways... But i wont be testing that out... Ill just use my non recalled teapots, or 4 quarts, or buffets, or 10 inch skillet (wider=better for evaporating...surface area can save you huge amounts of time)

...the coffee pots tried to keep the evap to a minimum as to keep the coffee uniformly tasting from first to last cup..(...i dont get paid by corning..but i probably should..)

.That ol' epoxy that was going bad and making a guy spill hot coffee on a person was just from water... Hah.. I dont think mr stookey ever had dreamed we'd be having this conversation huh?..

The long-short of it.

Yes and no.

Use corning for evap H2SO4, but use something in flawless condition, a screwed on handle, and/or deep and wide...or just wide if you dont have much sulfuric... I have more corning than i know what to do with... My garage/lab is about full, so is my kitchen..

I may need to rent a second house soon...

 

[upcyclist]

The long-short of it.

Yes and no.

Use corning for evap H2SO4, but use something in flawless condition, a screwed on handle, and/or deep and wide...or just wide if you dont have much sulfuric...

Whether you end up evaporating in corning ware or something else, you should also have a secondary catch basin in case the first container fails. Especially when heat is involved.

So, if you heat it in a corning ware coffee pot, put it and the hotplate inside another big plastic tub that is big enough to hold the pot, the plate, and the acid--with room to spare in case it reacts with something and starts foaming.

 

[Topher_osAUrus]

Whether you end up evaporating in corning ware or something else, you should also have a secondary catch basin in case the first container fails. Especially when heat is involved.

So, if you heat it in a corning ware coffee pot, put it and the hotplate inside another big plastic tub that is big enough to hold the pot, the plate, and the acid--with room to spare in case it reacts with something and starts foaming.

Well spoke!, yes. I always have my burners in a big tote, lined with newspaper...then cardboard..then a couple tile THEN my burner, corning, beaker...or, honestly more times than not my 1.50$ coffee pots.. They have juuuuust the right size hole for tubing to lead to a distill rig/nox scrubber/recycler.. ..i have about a grand in good lab glass...but, more times than not, everything i am using...from my fume hood, to incinerator/pyro unit is second hand/MacGyvered to function in my work space, and most things serve more than one function/purpose.

But, i ALWAYS protect my values, any way possible

 

[Daswolter]

The 1 pot is the normal blue flower only has the star above the corning ware logo made in the USA with no numbers on it in very good condition doesn't look like it was ever used.

The other is the multiple colored vegetables with the words "Le The" with P-104 number on it the corning ware logo and made in the USA on it. This one has been used a lot very coffee stained But, not cracked or chipped at all.

Both have the screw in the handles.

 

[Topher_osAUrus]

The 1 pot is the normal blue flower only has the star above the corning ware logo made in the USA with no numbers on it in very good condition doesn't look like it was ever used.

The other is the multiple colored vegetables with the words "Le The" with P-104 number on it the corning ware logo and made in the USA on it. This one has been used a lot very coffee stained But, not cracked or chipped at all.

Both have the screw in the handles.

I would say that those are(without looking at pictures, just from the second pot numbering) that they are the 6 cup teapot/kettle. Since they are not the percolators with only adhesive holding the handle and band, that you would be just fine evaporating your sulfuric in it.

It may just take a little bit longer because of the condensation from the bottle neck portion keeping the water in solution.

I would still choose to use a large skillet (a corningware pan...they call them skillets, unless their volume is larger than 2 quarts...i think..)

See attached pictures and let me know if these are similar to what you have on the pot side. And the skillet that would best serve your needs in this case.

Warning. Complete over elaboration ahead. (yes, even more so..)
Picture one has (fromthe left) 2 spice of life skillets/pans that are a series, french spice of life.. They would do well to evap in. Bottom middle is a 10 inch microwave skillet for sears, bottom right is a huuuge diameter microwave browner, i have 2 identical ones except their stamps are different, where one states its armana. Inside of the browner is an f-3-b souffle/quiche pan (i honestly dont remember which)

Inside those two pans in the bottom right is the plain white 8 cup.coffee percolator that i use to boil water for my sulfamic mix... Its a recalled one but i dont pick it up by the handle unless empty and cool.

Above that is a country festival pan thats one of the larger ones they make readily available in thrift stores with vigilant searching. On it, is a p-104 teapot minus the handle(i use it to carry clean ice out to my work area, and should i one day decide to sell it [doubtful] the buyer most likely wouldnt want a rusted band around it)

So, yeah, you can use your pots... But if its something you are planning on doing alot of/in. You may be better served to find something from picture 3

3bottom left a roaster pan holding a french white casserole, and french white microwave casserole. To their north, 2 percolators, one for my java, one to just heat distilled water.
To their right, a quiche/souffle? Pan... Its shallow..and wide. Would be great. Under it is a "grab-it" line pan, built in handle.. If you had a small cell, it could do you wonders. To its right, a 10 inch p series skillet.

If you are doing alot of sulfuric evaporating, (i would anyways) find one that can evaporate unabated. So, really, i suppose it all depends on a couple things... Amount of liquid to evap... Time allotment... Space... And im sure a couple other things im omitting unintentionally.

Most thrift stores/estate sales/dav/goodwill/second hand store/flea market have them for a very reasonable price... My grandmother still has her entire set from her wedding anniversary in 1960, and has every..single...piece except one lid that bit the dust.

Take care of it, and it will take care of you. Miss hoke speaks of always, habitually, wiping the bottom of your porcelain before contacting flame... I wonder if she ever had the pleasure of using corningware in lab setting. They are so incredibly versatile that its almost foolish NOT to invest in a good variety of pans. They have saved me on 3 different occasions. And, everytime i see one in a 2nd hand shop. I buy it.

 

[FrugalRefiner]

The moderators would like to thank all of the members who contributed to the two original threads that this post was based on, as well as those who asked questions showing what was missing. Because of the extra length and interest in these threads we have created the above, consolidated version making for an easier read. We encourage all members to read, comment, and ask questions in the original threads, What will hold up ?, and Corning ware - a guide of whats what.

The Library threads should not be considered to constitute a complete education. Instead, they're more like reading a single book on the subject of recovery and refining. There is so much more information on the forum, and it is impossible to include it all in these condensed threads. Members are strongly encouraged to read the rest of the forum to round out their education.