Exahust Catalyst recycling for PGE

[Anonymous]

Gill, I recall reading that the foil converters are more efficient in their use of the PGMs. So on average they probably will have less than a ceramic converter.

Thanks if that be the case I'm going to take a pass on foils. Much to heavy to be paying by the pound.

 

[Anonymous]

So how do you guys process the metal ones with out digesting all that metal for a couple of grams of PM's

 

[Anonymous]

I'm going to hang those big round ones on the wall inside my shop at eye level as a reminder. Expensive lesson, no precious metals - zero - zilch.

I mix fresh stannous daily when I'm processing.

Read the attached pdf, new technology using Zeolite. These should be easy to tell from the good ones, the ceramic is kinda punky like rotten wood and has a distinctive green color.

 

[skippy]

Gill, so you tried processing metallic foil converters? Or are the ones you took pictures of these zeolite based converters you mentioned? I would assume if you tried to acid leach a stainless steel substrate converter the metal would interfere with the dissolving of the PGMs until the foil part of the substrate is totally dissolved, which may be very tough given stainless steel's chemical resistance and the wash coat keep the acid from freely attacking it. There is a company in Germany that finely shreds the foil converters and then separates the wash coat from the pulverized stainless foil. There was a link someone posted some time back to a video of the process.

 

[Anonymous]

Gill, so you tried processing metallic foil converters? Or are the ones you took pictures of these zeolite based converters you mentioned? I would assume if you tried to acid leach a stainless steel substrate converter the metal would interfere with the dissolving of the PGMs until the foil part of the substrate is totally dissolved, which may be very tough given stainless steel's chemical resistance and the wash coat keep the acid from freely attacking it. There is a company in Germany that finely shreds the foil converters and then separates the wash coat from the pulverized stainless foil. There was a link someone posted some time back to a video of the process.

Both the large rounds are Zeolite based converters that I purchased in the field by the pound, I'm not going to mention the amount paid other than to say it's very expensive landfill material. The weight of both combined is 37.25 lbs

Dealing with people of good reputation helps, they have agreed to reimburse me for the Zeolite based converters, they're happy to have learned about them and how to easily identify these.

Best Regards
Gill

 

[kjavanb123]

Steve

I went through processing the 3 pegout cats, and I have couple of questions.

1. The fine paper filters used after zinc percipitant process doesn't let go of fine particles, I wrinsed the larger PGM particles with water, then heat up the beaker and evaporate all the water. how can i remove any remaining fine PGM stuck in the filter papers? do you burn the papers and somehow remove the fine PGM? Plz advise.

2. AR adding part, in DVD you mentioned you pre-heat the PGM + AR solution to 100mL. how much water is needed?

Thanks
Kevin

 

[lazersteve]

1. The fine paper filters used after zinc percipitant process doesn't let go of fine particles, I wrinsed the larger PGM particles with water, then heat up the beaker and evaporate all the water. how can i remove any remaining fine PGM stuck in the filter papers? do you burn the papers and somehow remove the fine PGM? Plz advise.

Since the video was produced I have found it easier to allow the mixed PGM black powder to settle and siphon off the liquid. Test the liquid for PGMs and properly dispose of it if it's negative. If positive add some more zinc. Soak the mixed PGM powder at room temperature in a 10% HCl solution until there are no more signs of zinc dissolving (tiny fizzing bubbles). Combine these rinses with the siphoned liquid for testing. Finally wash the black powder with hot water, settle, and siphon. Now the mixed powder is washed into a reaction flask with a spray bottle and treated with AR as per the video.

The filters you speak of can be added directly to the AR after cutting away any obviously barren areas or as mentioned in the video they can be added to your PGM burn bag of filters.

2. AR adding part, in DVD you mentioned you pre-heat the PGM + AR solution to 100mL. how much water is needed?

That should be heated to just below 100C.

I add just enough water to cover the material.

Steve

 

[kjavanb123]

Thanks Steve,

I am curios about the AR adding section, I had about 2.27grams of mixed PGM excluding the fine PGM powder which I am going to remove using your instruction. so I added 30ml of HCL and 30 ml of water and 10ml of Nitric acid, however I left them at room temp for like 2 days, then I heated it twice I could see small gray - white particles just like the video, but the color was darker, tested with stannous and turned out to be very dark brown. I followed ur video, and added 10ml of water + 5gram of Ammonium chloride pour it in plus a spoon of ammonium chloride. and heat it for 30 mins, noticed there are some brownish powder at the bottom of beaker, also the liquid tested emrald green. I tried to boil off the nitric but it mostly had white smoke. what happens if i skip the nitric removal section and go directly to ammonium chlord adding section? also do i need to dilute the brownish liquid from AR adding section?

Thanks
Kev

 

[kjavanb123]

ouch

I just found out there is a small crack on my DVD, and right at the track that shows separation with AR it rejects it. ouch. ouch. thank God i have good memory, Steve is there any other way I can get a copy? I have purchased it legally through your site.

One thing about AR adding, i boil it till what? and when you mentioned the PGM filter burning, you mean actually burning them? then drop the 10% HCL on the ashes? I am confused.

Thanks
Kev