Getting pure gold (shining)

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It sure is nice being the dumbest kid on the block. You know you're never gonna being fighting for the Alpha Dog spot. I immensely enjoy learning from all of you A.D.'s.

Paige

For me, there is no way but up! Thank all of you soooooo very much!!!!!
 
On rare occasion, when I'd re-refine, I'd have a touch of nitric still left in solution. The gold came down fine, but when it came time to wash the gold (with HCL), I'd get the slightest of dissolution. Stop washing after allowing it to boil for a brief period (to consume the nitric with the precipitated gold) and then ice the solution

I had this happen to me, on my 2nd refinement, 1st rinse, with HCL and water. The solution turned a little yellow. I precipitated it in the normal fashion and did not put it on ice, because I didn't know.

Is there any reason that the 1st rinse couldn't be done in plain water to avoid this?

Also. Does it really matter if the rinse is with HCL or nitric. As long as the end result is clean.
 
PhillipJ said:
On rare occasion, when I'd re-refine, I'd have a touch of nitric still left in solution. The gold came down fine, but when it came time to wash the gold (with HCL), I'd get the slightest of dissolution. Stop washing after allowing it to boil for a brief period (to consume the nitric with the precipitated gold) and then ice the solution

I had this happen to me, on my 2nd refinement, 1st rinse, with HCL and water. The solution turned a little yellow. I precipitated it in the normal fashion and did not put it on ice, because I didn't know.

The ice addition may not be needed in your case. I precipitated with SO2, and know from doing so that the precipitation process is exothermic in nature. It wasn't uncommon for my solution to get hot enough to slow down, or even stop the precipitation because the heat wasn't being dissipated. By cooling the solution, that didn't happen. Often times I'd add ice to a solution that had quit precipitating, and would achieve an almost instant reaction, which I attributed to the cooling. If you add your precipitant to your solution by mixing it with water, could be you provided enough of a heat sink to do the same thing. Hard to say. I've been away from refining for a long time now, and I used the same system for years, so the other methods are sort of a stranger to me now.

Is there any reason that the 1st rinse couldn't be done in plain water to avoid this?

My initial reaction is to say that it might be a waste of time, but maybe I'm wrong. The purpose of washing in acids is to remove undesired substances, which we both understand. Water in and of itself would be rather poor at doing that, but the fact that there's a trace of nitric remaining may be enough of an offset. I really don't know-------but my personal choice would be to stay the course and wash with HCL. I did that in practice, although I'm not saying it's the best way to go. It worked for me, so that was reason enough to do it.

Also. Does it really matter if the rinse is with HCL or nitric. As long as the end result is clean.

That's a reasonable question------one that will answer itself if you give it a go.

Talking about eliminating the chlorides is a lot easier than doing it. The slightest trace of HCL in your solution when you introduce nitric will be no different than a trace of nitric when you wash your precipitated gold with HCL. In either case, you'll dissolve some of your gold.

Assuming you can fully eliminate the chlorides, from my vantage point it may be every bit as good as HCL-----until the drying process. If you don't force dry the gold, it will retain enough nitric to burn your skin. It's a lot less forgiving of being handled than is HCL.

The point I've tried to stress right along is that unless your thing is experimenting, there are tried and proven methods to achieve the desired end. As long as you have the necessary chemicals at your disposal, there's no good reason to deviate from accepted practice. If you're a curios type by nature, and like to experiment, one of the things that you should do before getting too creative is to read a Merck Index and understand the compounds of gold and silver. Getting creative with either of them can lead to an early death.

In Utah, where I lived, a person with a chemical degree managed to blow a wall out of a lab by experimenting with a gold solution. I don't recall the details now, for it was about 30 years ago, but that was reason enough for me to stick to the book. Not being educated, I simply don't think I'm smarter than those that went before me.

I've posted this picture before. It is a portion of the last lot of gold I re-refined just prior to selling my refining business. Note the color. Also note that it required no pickle, and was not melted under a flux covering. I know, beyond a shadow of a doubt, that my method worked----and worked very well.

No------I make no guarantee that it is 9999. That number is difficult to achieve----which is the point I've tried to make right along.

Harold

Edit: added words for clarity
 

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Here is two pictures of one gold nugget I made using Butyl Diglyme. It weights 2 grams. It seems to be very pure.

But there is a «hole» in the middle. It formed when I cooled it in water. Is there a way to avoid that ?

Thanks
 

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Excellent Button Noxx!!!

I see the BDG served you well!

The hole is what's known as a 'pipe' and is a sign of high purity as is the bright shine on the button. You can avoid the pipe by slow and even cooling of the button.

Great job with the BDG.

Steve
 
No problem ! Thanks a lot.

I try to keep every single drop lol. For my two grams nugget, I only use 80 ml and I recovered about the same amount. And I don't plan refining more than a few grams at once. For the moment, I'm just refining my own gold, for fun, because nobody sold his gold to me ;).
 
aflacglobal said:
Can't we all just get along ? LOL

It's natural to want to be the alpha dog.
After all where would we be without competition and free enterprise.
I guess we can all agree to disagree.

I still love all you guys the same.
I'm new at this, but i take everyone advise and then i make my own
well informed decision. I'll listen to anybody, then it's up to me.


Ralph

Well said, Ralph.. my sentiments as well.. 8)
 
Hey guys:

I have just finished up a batch of gold that started out looking bad. It was black, very fine and spongy. I used the method that Harold has outlined in this post on purifying gold. I am waiting on some new cupels to melt it.

I followed all the steps as far refining in AR, boiling in Hydrochloric for 5 minutes, rinsing, then boiling in water for 5 minutes, then rinsing, boiling in Ammonium Hydroxide for 5 minutes, rinsing, boiling in water for 5 minutes, boiling in Hydrochloric again for 5 minutes, rinsing, and boiling for 5 minutes in water. After all this I put it back in AR again and redid the entire process.

Attached is the finished product. Notice the gold is very light brown, clings together, and falls very fast in water. When I get it melted, I am going to send it to my gold buyer and have it assayed. I think it will turn out good.

Please note, the gold is still in water when I took the picture.

My many thanks to Harold and his fantastic knowledge and him sharing it with us.

My hat is off to you, Harold.

Thanks,

Catfish
 

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WOW!!! Great job, man! :D

106.jpg

"Catfish hits the books and goes for the gold." :D
 
Great looking stuff. Is that a Corning Ware dish I see? I think you would be wasting money by having an assay done. I think the results would be meaningless. Fire assaying is the most accurate of all methods. It's accuracy is .02%, but only at the hands of an excellent assayer, running duplicate (or, more) samples. By the looks of the material, it's purity is likely out of the realm of fire assaying's accuracy.

At this purity, the only inexpensive way to determine purity is to look at the ingot. You want no discoloration (usually reddish), great brilliant color, well defined crystal, and a pipe (a hole).
 

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