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spaceships said:
Jerry, what percentage purity did that gold come out at?

Jon

spaceships

I can't say for sure because my buyer only pays up to 98% of a 99% flat purity which puts it at 97%net.So regardless of how many 9's purity I get it past that I still get the same,this past trip he told me that he also does lock ins on spot price if I want to go that way.I told him that I'm not that greedy and that as long as the spot price was above what it was when I purchased the original material that I was with not locking it in.

What purity would you say it was? That's not the best looking gold I've ever done,just the bigest melt I've done at one time.Thanks in advance.


P.S you should call me some time to talk.



modtheworld44
 
spaceships said:
Jerry, what percentage purity did that gold come out at?

Jon

If your asking Jerry because the color looks off - that could be a matter of lighting - if you look at the first two pics compared to the third pic the color is very different

The color of the first two as well as the color of the third does not look right but the comparison of the color "difference" shows how deceiving lighting in a pic can be for judging purity based on a pic

Same as here :arrow: http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=22904#p240270 --- were Geo commented on the color being off - but if you look at the pics of the gold in his hand & the color of the gold on the black back ground you see very different color of the same gold

So its not that the gold its self is off - but rather that the lighting in the pic is throwing the color off

Edit to add; - I often have to take several pics different angles &/or back grounds to get one I like for posting

Kurt
 
It's no biggie Kurt I was checking because the gold didn't look particularly pure and Jerry had sold it so a reference percentage would have been useful to know. It might have been 98 percent or 88 percent I don't know- I was just genuinely interested on a personal level 8) 8)
 
justinhcase said:
Has any one run the comparative cost's on each method.
I still proffer a good rotary evaporator to trying short cut's.
Sulfamic is handy for small quantity's and so you only need to reduce down once as I do.
Solvent extraction is good also and help's with high purity refinement.
"Versenol 120" made by Dow chemical looks very interesting as it is meant to let you drop form a solution with 50% nitric acid .but it is a bit pricey.Has any one tried it and compared cost's?
Cost's are not an issue at the moment,but when you look at scaling up even a slight saving could mean the difference between having a stable business and going hungry.
But it is the simplicity of evaporation I am drawn to and the reduction of low solubility impurity's is a bonus,apart form specialist precipitant's the other solution's add complication to the process and require intensive work,where as a batch evaporating can just be left to reduce down by it's self while you get on with other work so increases productivity.

Justin - sorry for the delay in responding but I have been "very" bussy

I don't think it is so much a question of cost of one method over that of another - rather it is more like Jerry pointed out (speaking of "his" process)
The variations of this process that I choose to use gives me several options to use depending on what type materials I run through it. It all comes down to process preference in the end for me and the speed in which it allows me to turn over my gold

In other words it really comes down to what you have going on in your particular situation - things like are you processing your own material or someone else's - how much material are you processing - is it material you get on a regular bases or only from time to time & are the lots you get to process large or small - etc.

Examples -------

This batch of GP 0n SS was a one time small batch - am I going to go buy a product like Versenol 120 to drop my gold in such a case - no - on the other hand if I was getting this material in on a regular bases & in large quantity's I would most certainly look into that as "an option" --- this option might cost more money wise - but on large & regular material for a customer it would pay for its self time wise & allow for timely return payment to the customer

You mention using a rotovap & that is certainly an option with the benefit of being able to recover your nitric for reuse - the down side is it would take forever if you were working on large batches on a regular bases for a customer - so its not practical for getting the job done to make a timely return payment to the customer - Versenol 120 would be the better option

If its your own material (GP on SS) & you have a lot of GP pins to process then using the pins to cement the gold makes sense because you kill two birds with one stone --- you recover the gold from the reverse AR as well as recover the foils from the pins

If its a small batch one time thing & you don't have copper for cementing sulfamic might be the answer

I choose copper cementing because (1) it was a small batch (2) I have LOTS of copper (& it only took about $3 worth) & (3) it only took about an hour to "recover" the gold to then go for refining --- so it was cheap - & fast allowing to make timely return to the customer --- & as I explained here :arrow: http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=22916&start=30#p240874 --- I still have free nitric which I will "finish" using up to recover foils from pins or fingers

Or as I explained here :arrow: http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=22916#p240544 --- cementing just makes good sense

The point being that what you have/get &/or who it belongs to &/or how it fits into your processing circuit all play a greater roll in deciding method options then the cost of one method over another

Kurt
 
spaceships said:
It's no biggie Kurt I was checking because the gold didn't look particularly pure and Jerry had sold it so a reference percentage would have been useful to know. It might have been 98 percent or 88 percent I don't know- I was just genuinely interested on a personal level 8) 8)

Jon - its all good :mrgreen:

Your question about the purity of Jerry's gold just gave me the opportunity to say something about judging gold purity based on the color in a pic

All to often I have heard the comment - "what's the purity - the color looks off"

Judging purity based on the color in a pic just doesn't hold a lot of water for making a judgment call - to many factors that can make the color "look" off - type of lighting the pic is take under - back ground - angle the pic is taken from - all of which can make bad gold "look" good - or good gold "look" bad

Kurt
 
kurtak said:
spaceships said:
It's no biggie Kurt I was checking because the gold didn't look particularly pure and Jerry had sold it so a reference percentage would have been useful to know. It might have been 98 percent or 88 percent I don't know- I was just genuinely interested on a personal level 8) 8)

Jon - its all good :mrgreen:

Your question about the purity of Jerry's gold just gave me the opportunity to say something about judging gold purity based on the color in a pic

All to often I have heard the comment - "what's the purity - the color looks off"

Judging purity based on the color in a pic just doesn't hold a lot of water for making a judgment call - to many factors that can make the color "look" off - type of lighting the pic is take under - back ground - angle the pic is taken from - all of which can make bad gold "look" good - or good gold "look" bad

Kurt

I agree wit that 100%.

Looking at the picture he posted, that slag on top is not too dirty so I would say he is running at least .98 on the button and more than likely he is setting at .995.

Nice job Jerry.
 
Barren Realms 007 said:
kurtak said:
spaceships said:
It's no biggie Kurt I was checking because the gold didn't look particularly pure and Jerry had sold it so a reference percentage would have been useful to know. It might have been 98 percent or 88 percent I don't know- I was just genuinely interested on a personal level 8) 8)

Jon - its all good :mrgreen:

Your question about the purity of Jerry's gold just gave me the opportunity to say something about judging gold purity based on the color in a pic

All to often I have heard the comment - "what's the purity - the color looks off"

Judging purity based on the color in a pic just doesn't hold a lot of water for making a judgment call - to many factors that can make the color "look" off - type of lighting the pic is take under - back ground - angle the pic is taken from - all of which can make bad gold "look" good - or good gold "look" bad

Kurt

I agree wit that 100%.

Looking at the picture he posted, that slag on top is not too dirty so I would say he is running at least .98 on the button and more than likely he is setting at .995.

Nice job Jerry.

kurtak

You said that the best way possible,in my opinion.The pictures didn't do that button any justice.Thank you!!!!


Barren Realms 007

Thanks for the compliment on the gold.....but there wasn't any slag on that button.LOL



modtheworld44
 
Jerry,

This is a no slag button.

Gold button 025.jpg

Even being off on the heating where your button doesn't get completely round and with excellent purity your button will come out like this, not with a dirty surface like your picture shows. I'm trying to give you a complement and you want to tell me I'm wrong when the pictures tell the difference. After doing this 200-300 times you learn the difference. Even the less experienced members will see the difference and it doesn't do them justice or teach them anything to contradict that information.

I agree and understand not to try for .999 purity when you are only going to get paid for .98 purity regardless of what you produce and I would do the same thing if I were in your position.

I'm not trying to bring you down or anything honestly.
 
Barren Realms 007 said:
Jerry,

This is a no slag button.



Even being off on the heating where your button doesn't get completely round and with excellent purity your button will come out like this, not with a dirty surface like your picture shows. I'm trying to give you a complement and you want to tell me I'm wrong when the pictures tell the difference. After doing this 200-300 times you learn the difference. Even the less experienced members will see the difference and it doesn't do them justice or teach them anything to contradict that information.

I agree and understand not to try for .999 purity when you are only going to get paid for .98 purity regardless of what you produce and I would do the same thing if I were in your position.

I'm not trying to bring you down or anything honestly.

Barren Realms 007

I honestly know you were not trying to bring me down,I think the confusion is coming from the way your meaning the word "slag".When I use slag,it means "borax and oxidized basemetals left over forming a hard surface area on top of the melt".Which picture do you see the slag in?Thanks in advance.



modtheworld44
 
modtheworld44 said:
Barren Realms 007 said:
Jerry,

This is a no slag button.



Even being off on the heating where your button doesn't get completely round and with excellent purity your button will come out like this, not with a dirty surface like your picture shows. I'm trying to give you a complement and you want to tell me I'm wrong when the pictures tell the difference. After doing this 200-300 times you learn the difference. Even the less experienced members will see the difference and it doesn't do them justice or teach them anything to contradict that information.

I agree and understand not to try for .999 purity when you are only going to get paid for .98 purity regardless of what you produce and I would do the same thing if I were in your position.

I'm not trying to bring you down or anything honestly.

Barren Realms 007

I honestly know you were not trying to bring me down,I think the confusion is coming from the way your meaning the word "slag".When I use slag,it means "borax and oxidized basemetals left over forming a hard surface area on top of the melt".Which picture do you see the slag in?Thanks in advance.



modtheworld44

I'm referring to the top picture of the top of your button.
 
I have done many comparisons in my head,I just made $1368.14 on this gold at a spot of $1149.70.I used about $25.00 in chemicals and reagents to refine it,to me that's a great price for what I made and I still have some supplies left.I did 72 pieces of the boxes in this thread,which was around 13-14lbs total.It would have taken at least a gallon or better of nitric to do the same batch.The average price for nitric these days vary dramatically depending on whether you have good or bad access to it.The variation of this process that I choose to use gives me several options to use depending on what type materials I run through it.It all comes down to process preference in the end for me and the speed in which it allows me to turn over my gold.I don't know if this is the type of comparison you are looking for,this is just my opinion on the things I look at when I compare things of this nature.Thanks in advance.

Dear modtheworld44
For the stainless steel I am running I have to use about a liter for every kilo I want to run.
There being as little as four gram's of Au in the one kilo of material the total soon add up.
Any thing to cut down processing time or cost's help's a lot with what I am doing.
Nice recovery.
Regards
Justin
 
I recall a time where I would try my hardest to get the first refine as pure as possible. This worked very well when I was processing very small batches of gold. Once the batches of raw material get larger it simply isn't financially practicable to get it pure in the first "shot." You end up with larger dirty solutions that you literally load with more and more gold but using the same AR multiple times otherwise you price yourself out of profit. I've run 10Kg+ of ceramics through the same solution on a number of occasions, adding more HCl and Nitric as required. I'd rather have 4l of waste than 20l.

Needless to say, that first drop is usually pretty "manky" if you pardon the Brit term and I never melt that gold. I simply pool it all together over a few days, give it a basic quick clean up using Lou's process and then truly refine it all together again as one.

I guess effectively that's using the first AR dissolve as a simple recovery. Something I would not have done in my early days, but something I have come to do as habit.

Jerry, personally I would have taken the powder that you used to create that button and given it a quick re-refine before melting it because I don't like pimpled buttons but that's my own choice. Everyone is different, and that's what makes life interesting. 8) 8)
 
personally I never let any of my Au go out until it is presentable.A matter of my personal pride over economics.
But I do have a number of client's who never give me the time to refine,they insist I melt it for them straight from recovery.
To my surprise they still get 98.5% of spot for it.
There are some who do not care what it look's like.
 
Here is the metal value of 'smart phones.
 

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richard2013 said:
Is that really true 1 IPhone unit will have 1.5$ gold? :shock:

Some will do yes. It's very brand and age dependent. From that money you have to deduct the cost of processing them though, and your time factors in to that.
 
richard2013 said:
Is that really true 1 IPhone unit will have 1.5$ gold? :shock:
I am surprised apple use that much.
I can not see a way of processing 99% of electronic waste economically,small traders need to work together to build large loads.
It is easy enough to keep track of how meany kilos came from each source ,so if ten small traders could out put five tun's a month they would have access to the large refinery's who have the most efficient smelting process .
Luckily I was approached by one of the largest group's in the U.K. or i would not even look at it my self.
As it is all I have to do is brake equipment down into ruff lot's of a tun each into dump bag's they do all the hard work.
People never look at the actual hourly amount of income they are actual achieving,most would find they are better off working in McD's than trying to process E-waste.
 

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