srlaulis
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Whaaa?!?! I'm with Barren. Not so fast.
Home built centrifuge - gold concenrates from IC's
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rusty
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resabed01 said:
PM Sent,,,, 10 kg is fine, and we will consider the offer taken and no longer available.
Now if someone would like to send a fairly decent sample of spent material, to run through the centrifuge. Same deal I'll mail you back the cons on my nickel.
I'm going to start a new thread for the " IC cons for resabed01 " were we can post package tracking numbers and the process from both ends.
The new thread is located here, http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=17717
Gill I'm with the guys here, I suspect you will recover considerable values and the final pictures of the bars may well spur others to try to be as inventive and ingenious as you to recover more of the values by similar methods. My offer will still stand but I'd like you to make a donation on behalf of both of us to the forum if my feelings are right. I would also suggest not assaying your treated cons as a simple re run through weak AR and testing with stannous should prove if any values remain but on the material ejected by your centrifuge which will be the bulk to test how effective your process is, perhaps another run through the centrifuge with a mixed small sample and then test the cons again would be advisable to see if it can capture more of the values if any are left. The sampling when done on the waste needs to be as representative as possible so drying, mixing and plenty of various samples from within the pile, remember this material may well be off to a refiner to recover what's left so knowing what's there is essential to protect your money.
rusty
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nickvc said:
nickvc I know that my quickly made centrifuge is far from perfect, I run the material 3 to 4 times to make sure I've captured 99% of the precious metals.
The cons from that 10.25 Lbs have stopped reacting to new additions of bleach, hopefully I can post a few pictures tomorrow.
I have it settling out at the moment and plan to be in the shop within the hour to decant and wash the dreggs preparing for precipitating the gold sometime tomorrow. The wife is driving me crazy, she wants to see gold.
Because I'm using caution extreme by running the material multiple times I do have a bit of unwanted dreggs, I'm guessing 20 grams or less.
While doing some research came across this cool centrifuge, the Gold Kacha. It's primarily made from injection molded plastic so the cost to purchase one of these units should be fairly reasonable. Perhaps it could be purchased without the motor or engine, any lawnmower engine would work.
The Gold Kacha bowel is turning at a slow 100 RPM, if I knew to diameter could figure out the G-Force it generates. I somehow suspect its much lower than my experimental unit.
Also the design of the bowel could be improved upon, when they decided to use injection molding they had to make compromises in order to release the mold from the die.
The manufacture still recommends to use a table to high grade your concentrates.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=gT5bxpfjvrM
rusty
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Leach liquor from that 10.25 lbs of chips, judging by the color I would say there's a bit of palladium present.
Shock, the last addition of bleach did not react so I had assumed the leach was ready to filter, filtered off the clear liquids then came in for a break went back out and the mud was bubbling. So I added new HCL, back outdoors where my reactions take place to add fresh bleach.
Glad I caught it instead of discarding the mud as trash.
What I've learned here is that I much rather use AR over acid / bleach the volume of liquids is phenomenal using bleach.
Shock, the last addition of bleach did not react so I had assumed the leach was ready to filter, filtered off the clear liquids then came in for a break went back out and the mud was bubbling. So I added new HCL, back outdoors where my reactions take place to add fresh bleach.
Glad I caught it instead of discarding the mud as trash.
What I've learned here is that I much rather use AR over acid / bleach the volume of liquids is phenomenal using bleach.
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Barren Realms 007
In Remembrance
Excellent job you are doing.
srlaulis
Well-known member
This is, by far, one of the best threads I have read!
Rusty, you may be able to extrapolate the bowl dimension from this drawing from gold katchas site. http://aptprocessing.opendrive.com/files/NV8zNjkzNTZfVE8wRk9fZWUxOQ/Gold%20Kacha%20Spec%20Sheet.pdf
According to this, it may be only about 4.5 g http://www.endmemo.com/bio/grpm.php
According to this, it may be only about 4.5 g http://www.endmemo.com/bio/grpm.php
rusty
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glondor said:
Thanks glondor, a friend of mine Don Bremner was building centrifuges so I'm not totally new to them then I spent well over a month researching the centrifuge before attempting my own build which differs from Don's design but the principal remains.
What I write here from my pulpit is to preach the advantages, once you guys catch the bug you'll will become my competitors, I'll no longer have a monopoly on my genius :mrgreen:
For you acid bleach users don't let the freezing cold weather stop you, last night was my best ever when the bucket froze over with a thin layer of ice keeping the chlorine intact. Now we know why lasersteve covered his cat comb with a lid, this was not to keep the chlorine stink from the neighbors but to keep the vessel concentrated with the gas.
In fact the acid / bleach method is the perfect choice for gold weather leaching.
Barren Realms 007
In Remembrance
Looking good. Have you tested it with stannus yet?
rusty
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Barren Realms 007 said:
Stannous would only tell me what I already know, that there is gold in solution.
You can bet that I'll be testing my solution after the gold drop, the way I see it, assuming the gold precipitation is complete I'll then have one less color to deal with on my stannous test.
On a side note has anyone ever done a gold drop from an acid / bleach leach using oxalic acid. I asked lasersteve about it and his reply is that he sees no reason why it would not.
Ok, I have oxalic acid and some sodium hydroxide, but no way at the moment to test my Ph unless the pool care or the nitrate test strips would work.
I'll need some spoon feeding ( help ) on this guys.
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rusty,
Santa brought me some pH test strips for Christmas that I put in my Amazon wish list. I didn't see the same listing, but I found this listing for $3.07 plus 0.99 shipping. pH range from 1 to 14.
Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Packs-Paper-Litmus-Strips-Tester/dp/B008IBOG7G/ref=pd_sbs_indust_3
Dave
Santa brought me some pH test strips for Christmas that I put in my Amazon wish list. I didn't see the same listing, but I found this listing for $3.07 plus 0.99 shipping. pH range from 1 to 14.
Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Packs-Paper-Litmus-Strips-Tester/dp/B008IBOG7G/ref=pd_sbs_indust_3
Dave
Barren Realms 007
In Remembrance
There is not enough range in the pool test kit to test the PH accurately.
rusty
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FrugalRefiner said:
Thanks, just purchased full range strips from a UK seller, they'll get here promptly.
This will give the much needed time to off gas any excess chlorine.
I"m also thinking maybe evaporate the solutions down, or do you guys figure it would be difficult to precipitate the gold from a concentrated solution.
The leach working that 6 lb batch is quickly adding up, there's almost a full 20 liters to deal with.
rusty
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skippy said:
Thanks skippy, the clear one has been off gassing just from the heat of the sun, this one below has been on the camp stove on a frying pan filled with sand.
Too much time on my hands, decided to take a few readings with that hydrometer I bought awhile back. The first bucket is my acid / bleach which reads a specific gravity of 70, the other pail is my HCL wash pre-leach with a specif gravity of 35. Not sure if I learned anything new here, when I have the gold chloride in a vessel large enough I'll take a reading from it.
What I'm interested in is by keeping records if I'm able to calculate the gold concentration.
I can not believe I did this too you guys, this has to be the most boring video on the net, the insoluble material settles out quick. I suspect were watching tantalum settle out, this is the stuff I want assayed.
Eighteen minutes to settle out.
[youtube] http://youtu.be/Cb2ojhk_K9o [/youtube]
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rusty
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Time to stock up the laboratory with reagents.
TEST NO.
53: Tantalum - T a .
General Information
Tantalite is the main ore of tantalum; columbite is the main ore of columbium; each contains
both elements; if either one present it should always be assayed for both. If an ore contains more
tantalum than columbium it is called tantalite; if more columbium than tantalum it is called c o l -
umbite. Both look just like common black or brown iron ore; no doubt much overlooked for this
reason - only a chemical test will tell.
Both ores are exceedingly heavy; columbite, specific gravity, 5.5 to 7; tantalite 6 . 5 to 7 . 3 .
(common iron ores usually less than 5). All heavy iron-looking rocks should be tested. For columbium
see Test 29. The following tests will show a reaction for either one or both. Tantalite, if pure might:
contain as high as 86% tantalum pentoxide; the balance made up of various percentages of columbium,
iron, manganese and other impurities. Tantalite and columbite are usually found in pegmatite format-
ions associated with feldspar and mica.
TESTS
1. Use powdered mineral equal to about two grains of rice.
2. Mix with potassium pyrosulphate equal to large navy bean.
3. Place on piece broken plate. (May be on charcoal but it sinks in badly and thus hard to
remove after fusing).
4. Fuse in reducing flame of blowpipe until fusion stops, then turn over and fuse until assay turns
5. Pulverize fusion in porcelain mortar (to use later on).
(dark.
6. Place one or two cc of water in a clean test tube.
7. Add tannic acid powder about size of two grains of rice.
8. Shake well until all the powder has been dissolved.
9. Add 6 drops of strong sulphuric acid. (Shake to mix).
10. Now add the powdered fusion ( 5 above).
11. Heat, just to boiling; let set until cold.
RESULTS: A yellow or orange precipitate if much tantalum or columbium present, NOTE:
Iron and some other elements may give similar precipitate; proceed as follows.
12. Let set until precipitate has settled to bottom of tube.
RESULTS: Almost a colorless solution unless much iron or other impurities present, then may be
yellow solution.
13. Shake tube and pour solution and precipitate into a clean evaporating dish; rinse tube with little
water into dish.
14. Place dish over lamp flame and boil just to dry.
15. Add 2 cc strong hydrochloric acid; boil for short t i m e .
16. Add 1 or 2 small pieces of tinfoil; boil until solution changes color - colorless or blue.
RESULTS: A blue solution indicates columbium or tantalum. Color may or may not show up
until solution is cold or longer; may show plainer by adding a very little powdered zinc.
' NOTE: Tungsten will also give blue solution in this test, but no yellow or orange precipitate as
in results 11 above. Confirm tungsten by Test 3, "Method of Procedure", Part Two.
TEST NO.
53: Tantalum - T a .
General Information
Tantalite is the main ore of tantalum; columbite is the main ore of columbium; each contains
both elements; if either one present it should always be assayed for both. If an ore contains more
tantalum than columbium it is called tantalite; if more columbium than tantalum it is called c o l -
umbite. Both look just like common black or brown iron ore; no doubt much overlooked for this
reason - only a chemical test will tell.
Both ores are exceedingly heavy; columbite, specific gravity, 5.5 to 7; tantalite 6 . 5 to 7 . 3 .
(common iron ores usually less than 5). All heavy iron-looking rocks should be tested. For columbium
see Test 29. The following tests will show a reaction for either one or both. Tantalite, if pure might:
contain as high as 86% tantalum pentoxide; the balance made up of various percentages of columbium,
iron, manganese and other impurities. Tantalite and columbite are usually found in pegmatite format-
ions associated with feldspar and mica.
TESTS
1. Use powdered mineral equal to about two grains of rice.
2. Mix with potassium pyrosulphate equal to large navy bean.
3. Place on piece broken plate. (May be on charcoal but it sinks in badly and thus hard to
remove after fusing).
4. Fuse in reducing flame of blowpipe until fusion stops, then turn over and fuse until assay turns
5. Pulverize fusion in porcelain mortar (to use later on).
(dark.
6. Place one or two cc of water in a clean test tube.
7. Add tannic acid powder about size of two grains of rice.
8. Shake well until all the powder has been dissolved.
9. Add 6 drops of strong sulphuric acid. (Shake to mix).
10. Now add the powdered fusion ( 5 above).
11. Heat, just to boiling; let set until cold.
RESULTS: A yellow or orange precipitate if much tantalum or columbium present, NOTE:
Iron and some other elements may give similar precipitate; proceed as follows.
12. Let set until precipitate has settled to bottom of tube.
RESULTS: Almost a colorless solution unless much iron or other impurities present, then may be
yellow solution.
13. Shake tube and pour solution and precipitate into a clean evaporating dish; rinse tube with little
water into dish.
14. Place dish over lamp flame and boil just to dry.
15. Add 2 cc strong hydrochloric acid; boil for short t i m e .
16. Add 1 or 2 small pieces of tinfoil; boil until solution changes color - colorless or blue.
RESULTS: A blue solution indicates columbium or tantalum. Color may or may not show up
until solution is cold or longer; may show plainer by adding a very little powdered zinc.
' NOTE: Tungsten will also give blue solution in this test, but no yellow or orange precipitate as
in results 11 above. Confirm tungsten by Test 3, "Method of Procedure", Part Two.
