Iodine 7% Leach for Gold

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Thanks, Rainmaker, for your reply. Your process is undoubtedly slow because of the addition of "10 parts water".

Thanks to others for their replies also.
 
You're right, MacDaddy. I should have spotted that. Ammonia and Bleach (Cl2) make phosgene, a choking gas used in WWI. This is one of those things they always warn you about mixing up in the household.

The patent I gave uses 1 part Iodine crystals, 4 parts potassium iodide, and 10 parts distilled water.
 
Well use your safety equipment!! :? I don't do anything with refining chemicals without my mask, face shield and cloves. Always use glass or plastic containers (recycle 5 or higher).


Rainmaker
 
rainmaker said:
Well use your safety equipment!! :? I don't do anything with refining chemicals without my mask, face shield and cloves. Always use glass or plastic containers (recycle 5 or higher).
Rainmaker

Well I like to taste everything I cook and that mask really gets in the way. :lol:
 
Rainmaker. Thanks for posting that information.

After adding the Sodium Nitrate are you able to re-use the iodine solution?

I bought this *&#^%$ Iodine Leach Report from GoldMineWorld.net and it varies significantly from what you are stating. This would actually be funny if I had not spent 10+ hours and waited for days trying to get good results. Crap!!!!!!!!!!!

I used an aquarium pump to agitate the iodine solution but after about 2 days the solution became completely clear like I had boiled off the iodine. Note: This was done outdoors in 60 to 70 degree temperatures. Did I do something wrong or must the container but air tight or something when using this air pump. Or is this what you would expect?

I just ordered another solution to tinker with using an iodine / Potassium Iodide leach: http://www.unionetchants.com/index.html

They have the Material Safety Data Sheets on the AU-1 Gold Conductor Etchant and it's based off some type of strong Lugol's iodine. But the GOLDOUT parcipitant is a secret mixture. There is a MSDS sheet on this but it won't say what's in it. They did state this GOLDOUT does destroy the iodine mixture meaning it cannot be used again but then again they make this for semiconductor applications. Maybe for what we're trying to do it might work a 2nd or 3rd time by doing some items such as checking the Ph and possibly lowering it down to 4, etc? Any ideas....
 
It sounds like you might have processed your batch in an uncovered container. It is not necessary to seal the container but you need to keep exposure of the leach to air to a minimum. The bubbler increases the exposure to air but the evaporated iodine seems to return to the mixture in a closed container. I would test the clear solution to ensure that there is no AU in it prior to disposal. There is no appreciable pressure buildup with the iodine leach process, but it should be kept covered, air tight is not necessary.

I don't really think the bubbler is necessary with scrap recovery, the process was originally designed for use on low grade ore.

As to what to expect, I am at a loss since I've always processed my material in a covered 1 Gal glass jar with a lid on it.
 
GoldSilverPro - what recipe or patent are you sucessfully following using iodine leach on gold? Also, I would be interested in buying this from you along with the plans for making nitric acid per your other posts.


Rainmaker - I started following your directions (I have a small batch brewing per your instructions in my garage right now.) There were a couple questions I wanted to clarify:
1. You are not adding any acids (HCl).
2. After you filter the solution to a clear leach. I wanted to confirm you are dropping the Iodine with Sodium Nitrate and filtering before getting the gold?
3. Can I skip step 3 (Drop PGMs). I don't see where this would matter that much. Or is this a critical step?
4. After the step of raising to near Ph7 and dropping the gold. Are you then adding more Sodium Nitrate or lye or anything to drop any additional iodine. Or is all the iodine all gone from step 2 anyway?
5. Are you using Potassium Iodide to get the Iodine back into solution? Or what are you doing?

Thanks for the help! If you wanted to write up some detailed instructions I would be happy to buy them.
 
"1. You are not adding any acids (HCl).
2. After you filter the solution to a clear leach. I wanted to confirm you
are dropping the Iodine with Sodium Nitrate and filtering before getting
the gold?
3. Can I skip step 3 (Drop PGMs). I don't see where this would matter
that much. Or is this a critical step?
4. After the step of raising to near Ph7 and dropping the gold. Are you
then adding more Sodium Nitrate or lye or anything to drop any
additional iodine. Or is all the iodine all gone from step 2 anyway?
5. Are you using Potassium Iodide to get the Iodine back into solution?
Or what are you doing? "

1. no acids.
2. correct
3. yes you can skip, but doing so will cause any PGMs to be in your gold
4. no, there should be no iodine left in your solution.
5. no, just start a new batch and add it to the new solution and dilute as
appropriate to obtain desired strength.

I will set down soon and make up a procedures sheet, this process is not copyrighted or patented. This procedure has been used for decades and is in the public domain. There is nothing new here, just a well kept secrete.

Rainmaker :? (I don't like secrets) :x
 
Golddigger:
I use Iodine as a leach on the sludge from T/6 leaching. But then, I am working a bench that has some good ore in it. Luck of the Scot-Irish !
Evo-au
 
Golddigger: As to your post about your bout with Iodine Leaching. I did send a thread to you back in Sept, but I got to thinking, Iodine will gassify or evaporate at room Temp. To repeat myself, Iodine workd well with my ore, so maybe it is your ore. Did you pulverize down to a workable mesh ? I work with -30 to -80. Every ore is different, maybe yours will not work with Iodine. Don't fault the messenger (Mike ), look to your own methods first. No disrespect meant. I've talked with Mike on the phone and another member of this forum has met him in person and we find no fault with him or his publications.

EVO :roll:
 
EVO-AU said:
Golddigger: As to your post about your bout with Iodine Leaching. I did send a thread to you back in Sept, but I got to thinking, Iodine will gassify or evaporate at room Temp. To repeat myself, Iodine workd well with my ore, so maybe it is your ore. Did you pulverize down to a workable mesh ? I work with -30 to -80. Every ore is different, maybe yours will not work with Iodine. Don't fault the messenger (Mike ), look to your own methods first. No disrespect meant. I've talked with Mike on the phone and another member of this forum has met him in person and we find no fault with him or his publications.

EVO :roll:

There's a big difference in working with ore vs Jewelry scrap. With scrap, the variables are few. With ore, everything can change within a few feet or even inches in a mineral formation. Untill you know exactly what everything the ore contains and how the compnents interact, it's very difficult to work out a process flow.
 
Untill you know exactly what everything the ore contains and how the compnents interact, it's very difficult to work out a process flow.
AMEN !!!!

Oh my head hurts. I have been going thru some ore mineralogy charts today. This is a whole different world.
 
Irons: Man, you have got that right. In my ore within even the same solution, the results can be mind-rending. Great to absolutely nothing. EVO :?
 
Alflacgolbal: Have you ever read LaRunes' - 'Rockpecker Notes" ? Kind of picks up where Dana left off. He consolidates mineral testing down to an easy to understand set of rules or tests. Whatever ! A great reference manual. EVO :)
 
EVO-AU said:
Irons: Man, you have got that right. In my ore within even the same solution, the results can be mind-rending. Great to absolutely nothing. EVO :?

..and about the time you figure out where the pay streak is, some peckerwood goes in there with a dredge and stirs it up real good.
 
Irons: Yeah, there are a bunch of those goofs around. The trick is to, with shovel in hand, go upstream and roil the mud. Boy, talk about startin' a war. HEH ! HEH ! :lol:
 
I noticed that as the lLugol's turned clear, the stripping stopped until I added more Lugol's.
after about 2 days the solution became completely clear like I had boiled off the iodine.

I was just reading wiki about copper iodide and it made me think of this thread. Maybe somehow copper is reacting with the iodine and precipitating the CuI? (using up the some of the iodine in the process)
Check out the preparation section: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(I)_iodide

It says you need a Cu2+ ion in order to bond with iodine, so there would have to be a different reaction taking place to get to that stage. But if the liquid turned clear and precipitated a white substance once some of the gold was stripped away (exposing some copper in the process) it seems like it could be something to think about.
 
Gold Silver Pro

I went to Free Patents Online and looked up Patent # 3957505; the patent filed by your friend and partner Richard Homick that proscribed using iodine and potassium iodide to leach gold particles.

I must admit that I was a little overwhelmed with most of the literature but, as you advised, the example at the end brought everything into a simple step-by-step procedure that even a dumb logger such as I could comprehend LOL.

This procedure, though expensive, does have the beauty of recycling its basic components for what seems to be an infinite number of cycles. I am also impressed with the non-toxic benefits and not having to dispose of hazardous wastes.

I do have a couple of questions though. In his patent, Mr. Homick touches briefly on iodine vapours and mentions that it might be wise to take protective measures during the leaching stage. How dangerous are iodine vapours? Would a fume hood and filter mask be adequate?

Perhaps I should mention at this point the type of gold I am trying to dissolve. It is a concentrate from a beach placer that is mainly clay and -100 mesh flake gold. The most I would be trying to work with is roughly two gallons of concentrate at any given time.

The other question I have has to do with the addition of a buffer to reduce the accumulation of salts during the reduction and precipitation stages. Although Mr. Homick goes into great detail about which chemicals are suitable as buffers, he does not mention at any point what volume of buffer to add or at what point in the procedure to add the buffer. Would you by chance happen to know the details of adding a buffer?

I don't suppose you would know how to contact Mr. Homick directly would you? I would, of course, respect his privacy if he so desired but I would also consider it an honour to be able to communicate with a man of such obvious intellectual ability.

Bob
 

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