LP gas configuration to melt gold

[Topher_osAUrus]

What do you mean by you built it with cracks?
Are there existing cracks in the build that you just let it be? Is it causing problems? Heat leaking out perhaps?
.

Similar to how bridges and concrete sidewalks are built with cracks to take into account the expansion coefficient, so when heating it has room for the growth of the material.

 

[saadat68]

butcher
That burner didn't work because the combustion is in the pipe

No need to change anything. Take it out of that other blower and pipe, put the head back on it like it came in the picture i posted above. Remove the orifice that came with it and drill the orifice a little bigger to let more gas through. Reassemble and test. Before you drill the orifice try boosting the pressure. Twice the pressure equals twice the gas without drilling the orifice.

Combustion is in the pipe

I made a reil burner. It is like conventional design, Just my pipe is a little smaller. It is 8 mm with 5 mm hole.
I think 1/8 inch pipe is 10.3 mm
http://uupload.ir/files/5xdf_img_20170913_193431.jpg

And this is my flame. It doesn't work, Right ?
What is problem ? 8 mm pipe ? I am really hopeless
Can I melt silver with this flame ? Maybe in future I will make a good burner

http://uupload.ir/files/uvbs_112.jpg
http://uupload.ir/files/5t26_113.jpg
http://uupload.ir/files/xiqx_114.jpg

 

[Lightspeed]

And this is my flame. It doesn't work, Right ?
What is problem ? 8 mm pipe ? I am really hopeless
Can I melt silver with this flame ? Maybe in future I will make a good burner

Well it looks like it works to me, I do not understand why you are doubting yourself so much, is it just that you have not built and used a burner and furnace before?

There is no problem, the 8mm pipe with 5mm internal diameter it's fine and does obviously not inhibit the flame or its performance, where you have the fuel orifice you could countersink the orifice to a depth of 1/2mm, using a larger drill than you have used to drill the orifice itself just to help with fuel/air mixing. I can see your bit of cardboard at the air intake you are using to adjust the flame, a simple flat disc of sheet metal(even coffee tin lid) with a screw attaching it to the burner on one side is a simple permanent choke, allowing rotation for more and less air.

And NO you are NOT hopeless.

Yes you can melt silver with the burner, it simply needs to be used in conjunction with your furnace.

A Burners performance also requires the furnace chamber and exhaust to be in reasonably correct proportion also. Your castable refractory will soak up a lot of heat before it starts refracting and not absorbing, as Palladium gave an example of with his aforementioned build.

I can't give advice on warm up of a castable refractory as I do not use one, but logic prevails. As the refractory is heated the moisture inside will expand, so go gently with the flame for a bit until the moisture has been driven off, similar to what you would do with a melt dish or crucible, just on a larger scale as your refractory lining is much thicker. If you go too quick the refractory will separate in places and large chunks may pop off and severe cracking will occur.

I think its about time you just tried it, and see if there's anything else along the way that may need ironing out.

Preheat the refractory, then the crucible, then try a small charge only when you have confidence in what you are doing, map out your moves, practice a dry run on how you will handle the furnace lid when hot, removal of the crucible and its handling procedure while holding a molten charge before your pour. Use precaution and think ahead of any possibility that could cause personal danger and make a contingency plan for it or adjust your procedure accordingly. There are no second chances with 1200c molten metal.

Looking forward to seeing and hearing your progress. Play safe.

 

[Shark]

http://uupload.ir/files/uvbs_112.jpg
http://uupload.ir/files/5t26_113.jpg
http://uupload.ir/files/xiqx_114.jpg

All three of these look good.

 

[saadat68]

Good advice about working with furnace in first time
Thank you Lightspeed and Shark
I made my furnace before and I think the burner is the last thing that I must build
I can not drill hole because next number drill here is 1.5 mm and we don't have #59 or 1.2 mm drill here
But no problem if you say flame is good and neutral so I start melting and in next year I will make a better burner
Good advice about working with furnace in first time

Thanks all

 

[kjavanb123]

All,

I followed the Grant's youtube video I have posted here and made a propane burner.

Amazingly, I was able to melt 58 grams of copper in 10 minutes, here is some photos for your reference.

I highly recommend his YT video for anyone interested in bulding a furnace that can be taken anywhere since it does not need a blower.

My next plan is to build an afterburner based on design by 4metals in his infamous smelting thread.

Here is the oxidizing flame on the burner,


Feed material,


Molten copper in exactly 10 minutes after burner and furnace is lite.


I just poured it on a piece of wood, but as it cools fast some beads also formed,



Thanks
Kj

 

[Slaughlin79]

I know this is an old post but I’m very familiar with. I’ve been welding/fitting/fabricating since I was 16 and I’m now 38 and I’ve got a lot of experience with a lot of different things.

It’s normal for us to have our acetylene gauges maxed out way passed the the red line. We use regular victor cutting tips to wash welds and having your acetylene along with oxygen pressures high makes the job go much quicker. Now we have never had a problem and I’ve never heard of acetylene exploding a little above 15psi. If that was the case then wouldn’t it explode in the bottle? Or do you mean high pressures of oxygen mixed with acetylene will explode? If so so than oxygen with any oil will explode if pressures gets high enough. That’s why when maybe some of you know as me when in a refinery there are some units that need to be wiped down with simple green or other non flammable degreaser and while wearing gloves bc the oils from your hands or body for that matter is all it takes. Conditions have to be pretty perfect though.

Now to the flashback. I’ve seen a hose flashback all the way to the regulator on an acetylene tank. Torch popped and heard the whistling and the hose exploded at the torch and every 6 feet of so It would have an explosion until it got to the cylinder where it just threw a flame out directly on the oxygen tank. You couldn’t have positioned the flame. It engulfed the oxygen and we all ran and called the fire department. 20 minutes that flame poured out engulfing that 1/4 full oxygen bottle. The firemen pull up the guy walks over to the bottle not a care in the world and just turned the acetylene bottle off and that was it. He said there was really no danger of the bottle exploding that it would have to get hot enough to compromise the steel and acetylene straight from a tank with no air induction can’t get hit enough.

Anyways if acetylene exploded right above 15 or so psi then I can’t imagine gauges would legally be able to go near that and for sure way over. I’m not saying your wrong just debating from my own experiences.

 

[butcher]

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=uuGrWpnkIILijwPY1rDoDA&q=acetylene+pressure+should+never+exceed&oq=acetylene+pressure+&gs_l=psy-ab.1.4.0l6j0i22i30k1l4.2786.18698.0.20956.20.14.0.5.5.0.264.1542.1j6j2.9.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..6.14.1604.0..0i131k1.0.cbgtzyHuspI

 

[autumnwillow]

It is not safe to use above 15 psi due to the possibility of dragging acetone which will not explode but ignite. If I remember correctly it corresponds with the amount of time that you are using it. I forgot already since I stopped using acetylene for melting.

 

[butcher]

Pure or less than pure acetylene above 15PSI (even without oxygen can explode (decompose violently).
Basically, explode into soot and water.
The acetylene does not need oxygen to explode, it can just from pressure or with some other unstable condition.

The red line on the gauge is there for safety reasons, OSHA rules on pressure setting and 15-pound max on the gauge for your safety.

The acetylene molecule is composed of two carbon atoms and two hydrogen atoms. The two carbon atoms are held together by what is known as a triple carbon bond. This bond is useful in that it stores substantial energy that can be released as heat during combustion. However, the triple carbon bond is unstable, making acetylene gas very sensitive to conditions such as excess pressure, excess temperature, static electricity, or mechanical shock.

The tank has a porous mass to prevent voids where gaseous acetylene could collect, the acetylene is dissolved in acetone, which normally stays in the tank when tanks are handled, stored, and used properly. the acetylene dissolved in acetone is stable in the tank, also the porous rock-like mass keeps isolated, slows down and or stop decomposition inside the tank.

https://www.google.com/search?ei=vIKsWpuuD8W6jwPNra2ABA&q=acetylene+decomposition+pressure+&oq=acetylene+decomposition+pressure+&gs_l=psy-ab.12..0i30k1.15400.27932.0.30606.15.15.0.0.0.0.328.2198.1j13j0j1.15.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.15.2190...0j0i67k1j0i22i30k1j0i13k1j0i7i30k1j0i8i7i30k1j0i13i30k1.0.lectDYPnO4w