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bahabully

Well-known member
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Joined
Jan 26, 2023
Messages
164
Location
Watertown, tn
So according to the elite among us, no gold creek is in fact the richest gold mine on earth (Ref.-Red Neck series). Soooo, after being informed of this I decided to go from 30g samples (1/4 inch mason jar samples) to full 2-3 inch ore samples per mason jar. I will not say what rock (ore) type,, but it is in the REDNECK series. PROVEN non-gold bearing part of the usa, so deal with that too.
6 mason jars of crushed non-gold bearing ore from no gold creek.
Subjected to:
1 - HCL bath, maybe 3-4 days, then poured off into waste collection with iron.
2 - Then maybe 1/4 tsp of spectricide stump remover added with enough HCL to cover above crushed ore by 1 inch.
3 - Above allowed to sit outside for 1-2 days in ambient summer temp.
4 - Then added 1 tsp of sultamic (groute cleaner) acid and stir in ... and allowed to sit at ambient summer temp 2-3 days.
5 - Then decanted all 6 mason jars.
6 - 4 mason jars decanted to dark red/brown wine.... 2 decanted to golden yellow/egg yoke color
7 - Then mixed 1 full table spoon SMB into 1 inch of mason jar with water.
8 - Then I filtered the decanted solutions into the smb solutions (dripped the AR solution into the SMB)
9 - REDNECK results - The dark red/brown wine solutions created a massive white precipitate. (ref. - REDNECK cottage cheese thread) - 4 of the 6 mason jars
10 - REDNECK results - the golden / egg yoke solutions created a nice ultra file and heavy brown precipitate. - 2 of the 6 mason jars.
11 - per forum guidance, last time I got white precipitate that didn't react with sodium hydroxide to form a black goo i trashed it, but this time of the 4 mason jars I had a full hand full of white/gray precipitate (just too much to simply trash without figuring out wtf it was) and just wanted to set it afire !! so I did. All white cottage cheese and crystalized precipitated stuff into fire..... Here is where I need expert opines... what the hell do I have in the crucible ? It would not pour. across 4 mason jars I had what I would call a handfull (ie.- put hand into a beach and grab and handfull of sand.. that much) I took the full hand full of AR / SMB precipitated stuff, and added a full tablespoon of borax, and set it into the furnace and lit it up. Let it cook at 5 psi with top open for 10-15 min to burn off CL gas, then shut lid and put up at 30 psi for a half hour and at the end the stuff would not even put out, was as hard as a rock. EXPERT SMERLTERS please take a look at let me know what this burned solution might be ?
12 - of the two brown precipitated ore AR / SMB, two mason jars.... much less presipitate. It goes into the furnace tomorrow during the FL / LSU game (ref.-second pic). Will post results also. All coming from, according to the experts on the forum, the most rich gold mine... ON EARTH. yeeee-haaaaaa !!!!
13 - why do folks even bother prospecting for gold out west ? (fools)

pic gold - its the 1 gram per 300 gram pure gold out here. will smelt tomorrow and post pics. My best guess is that fools don't want to prospect on land that is privately owned... hence, all gold mines are on public (free land). Note to private land owners in the east... check for gold !!

pic white - this is residue that was not able to even pour after 20 min. at full 30psi in furnace... (iron?)... wtf..... is any one in the forum able to eyeball and give an educated opine regarding what metals might be in the goo derived from white AR / SMB precipitate ? myself, I see a couple spots when zoomed it that present gold.... but most is silver... a few round balls of metalic who knows what... and wtf is the red stuff ?

Chime in !! have fun... sling snot... disparage .... it's all good. RICHEST GOLD MINE ON EARTH here.. OUT !!.. night ;)
 

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So according to the elite among us, no gold creek is in fact the richest gold mine on earth (Ref.-Red Neck series). Soooo, after being informed of this I decided to go from 30g samples (1/4 inch mason jar samples) to full 2-3 inch ore samples per mason jar. I will not say what rock (ore) type,, but it is in the REDNECK series. PROVEN non-gold bearing part of the usa, so deal with that too.
6 mason jars of crushed non-gold bearing ore from no gold creek.
Subjected to:
1 - HCL bath, maybe 3-4 days, then poured off into waste collection with iron.
2 - Then maybe 1/4 tsp of spectricide stump remover added with enough HCL to cover above crushed ore by 1 inch.
3 - Above allowed to sit outside for 1-2 days in ambient summer temp.
4 - Then added 1 tsp of sultamic (groute cleaner) acid and stir in ... and allowed to sit at ambient summer temp 2-3 days.
5 - Then decanted all 6 mason jars.
6 - 4 mason jars decanted to dark red/brown wine.... 2 decanted to golden yellow/egg yoke color
7 - Then mixed 1 full table spoon SMB into 1 inch of mason jar with water.
8 - Then I filtered the decanted solutions into the smb solutions (dripped the AR solution into the SMB)
9 - REDNECK results - The dark red/brown wine solutions created a massive white precipitate. (ref. - REDNECK cottage cheese thread) - 4 of the 6 mason jars
10 - REDNECK results - the golden / egg yoke solutions created a nice ultra file and heavy brown precipitate. - 2 of the 6 mason jars.
11 - per forum guidance, last time I got white precipitate that didn't react with sodium hydroxide to form a black goo i trashed it, but this time of the 4 mason jars I had a full hand full of white/gray precipitate (just too much to simply trash without figuring out wtf it was) and just wanted to set it afire !! so I did. All white cottage cheese and crystalized precipitated stuff into fire..... Here is where I need expert opines... what the hell do I have in the crucible ? It would not pour. across 4 mason jars I had what I would call a handfull (ie.- put hand into a beach and grab and handfull of sand.. that much) I took the full hand full of AR / SMB precipitated stuff, and added a full tablespoon of borax, and set it into the furnace and lit it up. Let it cook at 5 psi with top open for 10-15 min to burn off CL gas, then shut lid and put up at 30 psi for a half hour and at the end the stuff would not even put out, was as hard as a rock. EXPERT SMERLTERS please take a look at let me know what this burned solution might be ?
12 - of the two brown precipitated ore AR / SMB, two mason jars.... much less presipitate. It goes into the furnace tomorrow during the FL / LSU game (ref.-second pic). Will post results also. All coming from, according to the experts on the forum, the most rich gold mine... ON EARTH. yeeee-haaaaaa !!!!
13 - why do folks even bother prospecting for gold out west ? (fools)

pic gold - its the 1 gram per 300 gram pure gold out here. will smelt tomorrow and post pics. My best guess is that fools don't want to prospect on land that is privately owned... hence, all gold mines are on public (free land). Note to private land owners in the east... check for gold !!

pic white - this is residue that was not able to even pour after 20 min. at full 30psi in furnace... (iron?)... wtf..... is any one in the forum able to eyeball and give an educated opine regarding what metals might be in the goo derived from white AR / SMB precipitate ? myself, I see a couple spots when zoomed it that present gold.... but most is silver... a few round balls of metalic who knows what... and wtf is the red stuff ?

Chime in !! have fun... sling snot... disparage .... it's all good. RICHEST GOLD MINE ON EARTH here.. OUT !!.. night ;)
We have been through this before.
There is no way we can advice on this.
My guess is slag and something precipitating out of solution, from the pictures.
Temperatures is what counts, not PSIs and time, that ends up in guessing.

You need to either have an assay or learn to make an assay yourself, there are plenty of books, links and such in the Library here.

Next, what protocols are you following?
To me, it seems like some random whims of adding this and that to ores that are not assayed, you are playing with your life mate.
Most all protocols for mining, extraction and refining of metals from ores,
has been developed through hundreds and thousands of years by trial and errors, and there are probably countless victims in its wake.
Why do you insist on starting on scratch?

Get or do your assay now please.
 
We have been through this before.
There is no way we can advice on this.
My guess is slag and something precipitating out of solution, from the pictures.
Temperatures is what counts, not PSIs and time, that ends up in guessing.

You need to either have an assay or learn to make an assay yourself, there are plenty of books, links and such in the Library here.

Next, what protocols are you following?
To me, it seems like some random whims of adding this and that to ores that are not assayed, you are playing with your life mate.
Most all protocols for mining, extraction and refining of metals from ores,
has been developed through hundreds and thousands of years by trial and errors, and there are probably countless victims in its wake.
Why do you insist on starting on scratch?

Get or do your assay now please.
I need to refine some metals before I can assay them.. an assay on random creek rocks would be a bit expensive i think. Hence, looking for expert or subject matter experts to chime in regarding what those creek rock metals might be before i pay to find out.
 
I need to refine some metals before I can assay them.. an assay on random creek rocks would be a bit expensive i think. Hence, looking for expert or subject matter experts to chime in regarding what those creek rock metals might be before i pay to find out.
As I say learn to assay yourself then.
There is plenty information in here:
"A textbook of fire assaying, Bugbrich"
"Introduction to Torch Assaying by Charles L. Butler"

These are only two examples.
 
I will repeat what I have stated many times before …do not add chemicals or high heat to unknown ores or rocks as you have absolutely no idea what they contain or what toxic or deadly fumes or elements you will create, this message has been stated by many others and we have lost members who failed to heed the warning, even crushing ores creates toxic or dangerous particles but at least that can be mitigated by wearing proper masks or decent extraction and filters or by spraying water to limit the dust.
Please heed the warnings we do not want to hear from your family about your illness or demise.
 
We have been through this before.
There is no way we can advice on this.
My guess is slag and something precipitating out of solution, from the pictures.
Temperatures is what counts, not PSIs and time, that ends up in guessing.

You need to either have an assay or learn to make an assay yourself, there are plenty of books, links and such in the Library here.

Next, what protocols are you following?
To me, it seems like some random whims of adding this and that to ores that are not assayed, you are playing with your life mate.
Most all protocols for mining, extraction and refining of metals from ores,
has been developed through hundreds and thousands of years by trial and errors, and there are probably countless victims in its wake.
Why do you insist on starting on scratch?

Get or do your assay now please.
This is not a hard rock mine, it is creek rock. I'm thinking each rock could be significantly different in content so why assay if the results can not be projected into a somewhat homogeneous population? I do plan on assaying the metals I derive once I have enough.
 
I will repeat what I have stated many times before …do not add chemicals or high heat to unknown ores or rocks as you have absolutely no idea what they contain or what toxic or deadly fumes or elements you will create, this message has been stated by many others and we have lost members who failed to heed the warning, even crushing ores creates toxic or dangerous particles but at least that can be mitigated by wearing proper masks or decent extraction and filters or by spraying water to limit the dust.
Please heed the warnings we do not want to hear from your family about your illness or demise.
No heat is ever applied in my process. All chemicals added out side.. and then run away (literally) and allow to sit outside in sun for 24-72 hours before proceeding to next step
 
No heat is ever applied in my process. All chemicals added out side.. and then run away (literally) and allow to sit outside in sun for 24-72 hours before proceeding to next step
What Nick meant is smelting, not heating a solution.
Regarding assays, it do not take much to do an assay, and you still need to sort your material somewhat to get repeatable result.
If not, your effort will be fruitless, you will have no idea what works when, even if you find something.
 
What Nick meant is smelting, not heating a solution.
Regarding assays, it do not take much to do an assay, and you still need to sort your material somewhat to get repeatable result.
If not, your effort will be fruitless, you will have no idea what works when, even if you find something.
Once I get this ball of goo into a bead and then do the same with the brown precipitate then I'm gonna get an assy, I may reach out to you in that regard. Put black goo back into furnace with chapman's flux and more borax... Hopefully it will pour
 
Once I get this ball of goo into a bead and then do the same with the brown precipitate then I'm gonna get an assy, I may reach out to you in that regard. Put black goo back into furnace with chapman's flux and more borax... Hopefully it will pour
You don’t assay beads, they can be XRF tested.
Assays are for ores.
And I’m on another continent mate😏
 
It sounds like you put a Limestone member into Hcl. This removes the Calcium component, leaving just the Silica. In order to reduce this, you will need to add Sodium Hydroxide, Collector metal, Borax, a little charcoal or flour, for your fluxes. The amount of each will depend on how much of the white goo you are assaying. Then you will need to heat this in a furnace capable of 2000 F, for up to an hour. Pour when no more CO2 bubbles out of the fluxes. A pyrometer is helpful to determine that adequate heat is used. Finally, pour into a cone mold. Then you must cupel the Lead away from the PMs. Long story short, a fire assay ($50), would be $ well spent. If it comes back promising, then learn how to fire assay properly. Other wise, you are pissing into the wind. OK if you like Golden Showers, I personally don't care for them.
 
It sounds like you put a Limestone member into Hcl. This removes the Calcium component, leaving just the Silica. In order to reduce this, you will need to add Sodium Hydroxide, Collector metal, Borax, a little charcoal or flour, for your fluxes. The amount of each will depend on how much of the white goo you are assaying. Then you will need to heat this in a furnace capable of 2000 F, for up to an hour. Pour when no more CO2 bubbles out of the fluxes. A pyrometer is helpful to determine that adequate heat is used. Finally, pour into a cone mold. Then you must cupel the Lead away from the PMs. Long story short, a fire assay ($50), would be $ well spent. If it comes back promising, then learn how to fire assay properly. Other wise, you are pissing into the wind. OK if you like Golden Showers, I personally don't care for them.
Well heck... One more round then, but my process of no heat takes forever. My curiosity is killing me. I want to get away from chemicals, and try fire again. Last time I think I screwed up... Created a handful of promising lead beads (collector)... I say promising the weight of lead in flux was less than the weight of the resulting bead after pouring.... So something we into it. Then I cupeled in a melting dish thinking it was a bone ash cupel and I think I ended up burning off everything... So now... Gonna crush , then collect heavies using a miller table or hand pan.... Then try chapman's flux and some white flux I have in garage along with some litharge.... I'll post a new thread when I get there.... Will be weeks to get enough heavies I think...
 
When you don't succeed at first, try, try again. After that, don't make an ass out of yourself. I have had many failed attempts along my road to success, many looked like yours. Don't give up, study the chemistry, and pyrometallurgy of what you are doing, and eventually you will have success. Many of the replacement Au in Limestone, produces Au so fine, it takes a scanning electron microscope to see the Au. Gravity and floatation is of no use. Cyanide leach is the way to go, for production. Fire assay is a good, cheap way to see if any values exist. Carry on.
 
I have heard of several limestone with included Gold deposits. Bigger then the Carlin trend types, and even much richer. Nobody wants a giant strip mine of this size, in a relatively upscale neighbor hood. Besides that, it is a known deposit, one which would upset the Gold market world wide.
 
What Nick meant is smelting, not heating a solution.
Regarding assays, it do not take much to do an assay, and you still need to sort your material somewhat to get repeatable result.
If not, your effort will be fruitless, you will have no idea what works when, even if you find something.
Wait, ... I though fire was safer than chemicals ? I think even with an assay we would all agree that there will be rock to rock variability and even pockets of ore that may reside completely outside the nominal ranges observed in an assay... and those deviations from the mean may in fact be specific to toxic elements .. no ? So given imo: Treat all samples like they contain the bad stuff, even after an assay. I would not let an assay of benign elements lower my guard during processing. It would only sate my curiosity to some degree. Now, what is safer in your opinion (chemical processing or fire). One is wet / One is hot One creates waste that needs treatment / One does not ?
 
Wait, ... I though fire was safer than chemicals ? I think even with an assay we would all agree that there will be rock to rock variability and even pockets of ore that may reside completely outside the nominal ranges observed in an assay... and those deviations from the mean may in fact be specific to toxic elements .. no ? So given imo: Treat all samples like they contain the bad stuff, even after an assay. I would not let an assay of benign elements lower my guard during processing. It would only sate my curiosity to some degree. Now, what is safer in your opinion (chemical processing or fire). One is wet / One is hot One creates waste that needs treatment / One does not ?
I was not the one bringing up safety concerns regarding smelting.
They certainly are there.
Fire Assays need the ores to be properly prepared first. Finely ground randomised material, then well mixed and then the assayer will randomly quarter it before selecting a pile to assay.
Read some assay books please.

All fumes, dust and smoke from all processes are dangerous.
But when the assay is done you have solids that are relatively benign.
Not a container full of salts and liquids that will continue to pose danger for life until properly disposed of.
 
1g gold for 300g ore would be INSANELY rich ore. That's 3.3g/kg... or 3,300g/ton!!! A bit over 100oz/ton!!

People would be SWARMING all over than place if it was that rich!

Also, I can't even find any rhyme or reason to your chemical processing. You don't know what the ore is made of. You could be dissolving away any super-fine gold, since conc. HCl will dissolve extremely finely divided gold, and with no other metal to reduce it back out, you'll lose it when you pour the HCl into the waste collection. Your procedures will make a mess out of any sulfides.

Unless you have a very simple, homogeneous ore material of known composition, throwing chemicals into it without even roasting the crushed ore first to drive off sulfur and other volatiles is pointless. I have only tested very small samples concentrated black sands from streams and ancient glacial till with chemicals, since I know those are almost entirely iron oxides. HCl will slowly strip the iron away, and if there is any gold encapsulated in those iron oxide granules, it'll be freed.

I save up all the black sands from locations where I can confirm gold particles trapped in the black sands, for a proper fire assay when I have enough to process.

At least you need to gravity-separate the heavy bits of ore from the lightweight garbage. It needs to at least be panned down. Any gold-bearing minerals will be in the heavy fraction of the pan material. Lightweight minerals will be washed out, and you'll have much less ore to process, with a high concentration of anything valuable.

Jason, from Mount Baker Mining, has a TON of videos on processing raw ores without chemicals, using separation based on density/gravity, then how to smelt depending on what the prevailing minerals likely are in the ore.
 
guys i going to give you a secret to deal with black sand
that a old miner gave a to me

He always grind the black sand so fine that it’s look like mud
and after that panned the mud to see if the is gold
his wife do that and many times she sometimes get 2 or 3 g of gold a day
by doing that

He was always said (gold is trap inside those black sand grain)

old timer use 2 stone to grind the black sand
I know is very hard process
but very fun and very instructive
then You know how old timers do it

I do it few times and I still do it
and I always get certain amounts of gold
some time good some times not so good

but any amounts of gold is Good


the other way is roasting black sand to 700 degree as celcious

then with a metal spoon throw it
into a cold water bucket
so by the reation it will crack open the black sand and reveal the gold trapped inside

both way are fun to do it

and it was work for the old timer and it work for me
I never throw away the black sand
there is gold in it.

if you find a very good looking rock that’s look like ore
look around until you find the source
 

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