Thiosulphate Dropped--Testing for PM?

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I have been trying to find out more about this thiosulfate leach, have not found very much useful information on it yet.

but it seems the ammonia and copper can act as a catalyst in the reaction, in correct proportions will form some type of copper amine catalyst Cu(NH3)3, (helping to promote the chemical reaction of the leach but not being chemically part of it).

Problem if too much copper it will spoil the leach, as copper will also form a complex with thiosulfate, Cu(S2O3)3. Too much added copper tends to precipitate as cupric sulfide.

Too much or lack of ammonia in solution is important to leach, as the copper forms Cu(NH3)3 with copper.

Cupric Ion is what acts as oxidizer in leach.
With the oxygen (bubbled air) is what regenerates the(cupric) Cu 2+ ion, and when doing this leaves S2O3 thiosulfate to complex with gold.

Oxidative degradation of thiosulfate to polythionates and sulfates is accelerated markedly in the presence of excess copper ions and/or ammonia. The oxidative degradation reactions are slowed considerably at elevated oxygen partial pressure in the absence or near-absence of copper and ammonia.

If copper or ammonia in solution is not in proper proportions it seems the chemistry may not work well at leaching gold.
(and I assume may just carry base metals like iron in solution my guess here)

Too much copper seems to also lead to Oxidative degradation of thiosulfate to polythionates and sulfates is accelerated markedly in the presence of excess copper ions and/or ammonia in leach, too little ammonia will not form copper catalyst needed,
(which I believe would not form insoluble iron hydroxides, and this may just leave iron in solution)

Lead oxide will also form a complex PbO(S2O3)2 no mention of conditions needed,

Minerals of gold like chalcopyrite , and pyrite can be leached, from what I understand is chalcopyrite will break down easily in this leach.

but the pyrite crystals do not release the contained gold and seem to only soften,these hard pyrite crystals do not decompose much in thiosulfate leach, thus preventing leach from getting gold from them, although the free gold will leach easily (if conditions are maintained favorable condition in this leach.
(which seems to me would be like trying to juggle a basket full of rotten tomatoes while standing on your head)

the pyrite may hold considerable portion of gold locked up in its crystal bond,besides free gold this cold be a major portion of your gold in these pyrite bonds, and should be DECOMPOSED (broken down before leaching) to me this means to roast ore PRETREATMENT and break sulfide pyrite bond with gold.

if ammonia and copper is maintained in proper proportions : copper ions are a key factor to this leach along with ammonia, too much or too little of either and leach will not work properly,
Copper will be in solution as a copper amine (unless too much copper or not enough ammonia) too much copper, or too little ammonia copper sulfide forms,

Ammonia is important to keep leach balanced (copper in solution)

Ammonia is also very important to Iron (a major portion of most ore)
As the ammonia changes iron to Fe(NH3)3
Then Fe(NH3)3 + OH- --> Fe(OH)3

Fe(OH)3 is what that the (red powder in photo) looks like to me iron hydroxide.

(I believe but cannot find anything to prove this yet:
That if leach was not run properly Iron would NOT precipitate iron as Iron hydroxide, and would possibly be in solution (pH improper or too much ammonia in solution or possible lack of ammonia,) , (copper may be replaced by iron in solution if lack of ammonia), this is a guess here on my part).


During leaching ferric oxide, Iron hydroxide and elemental sulfur will be in solids and copper in solution acting as oxidizer (oxygen rejuvenating the cupric Ion) and gold will be left with the thiosulfate IF this leach is working and IF all conditions are maintained in solution, (< 9 pH, and temperature also seem to be factors).

Gold with free thiosulfate:
4Au + 8S2O3 --> 4Au(S2O3)2


This seems to me would be a very difficult leach to maintain in proper working order.
And my study of this so far reaffirms my belief the red powder in picture is iron, with possibly some gold (or your gold may have never been leached out) (but I have been wrong many times before).

Testing on what you have should be done to determine what happened and what is where.
Do tests for iron and gold.
without testing all of us just shooting in the dark trying to guess what is going on.
when some simple tests will tell you for sure.

Now you had another solution you mentioned leaching gold plated copper pins, and stated you also had a red (or orange I cannot remember )colored powder you thought was copper. I really was not concerned with this powder or solution, but only if you dissolved the copper and then reduced it back to metal would it give a red-brown color, otherwise I would expect Green, blue or white copper powders.
I would not use thiosulfate leach for gold plated copper pins, if you do not see why re-read the above statements.


(If leaching gold with this thiosulfate leach, and maintaining leach in favorable conditions was like trying to juggle a basket full of rotten tomatoes while standing on your head, then trying to leaching gold from copper metal pins may just upset your balance and you can make something similar to Cambells toe mater soup).

This seems that it would be a fast and effective leach but almost impossible to get it, and keep it working properly, without closely monitoring pH, ammonia, cupric ions. Copper sulfide, sulfur, and iron hydroxide, or at least monitor some of these in solution to be able to keep conditions working in this leach.

some of you Guy's are saying this is an acid leach? (I keep reading it is maintained less than pH 9), (pH 7 is neutral), (above pH 7 is caustic or alkaline), (and some have been talking alkaline), the leach works with ammonia in solution (an alkaline solution), (granted < pH 9 could be acidic if it was way below pH 9,(actually below pH7), but then you could not keep the ammonia or the amines in solution) so one of us has this wrong.
what is it alkaline or acid? (looks alkaline to me), (but then again I have no expierience useing this leaching process).

my two red cents
 
I have run 3-4 test runs of plated pins in the leach on the acidic side, not to recover the gold because it would be such a small quantity but just to see what would happen if the pins were left in the solution for a prolonged period of time, the copper was never attacked by the solution that I could tell.
 
Barren Realms 007 said:
The instructions I have on thiosulphate state that is has a tendency to leach more base metals out of your material at a high PH than it does at a low PH and recomends that the solution be used at a ph of .1-1. Any comments on this?


The man who instructed us on using thiosulphate said to keep it at 9.0 to 9.2 during the entire leach time.
 
:mrgreen: You guys are more than starting to understand. Iron in solution precipitates as hydroxide at pH 9, so stay below pH9. Some bubble air like as if a cyanide leach. This is good as pyrite is oxidized to ferrous sulfate (Which doesn't reduce gold from this leach, remember?) Ammonia, I always shudder, as carbonaceous material can form explosives when ammonia is present. It's used when copper is sufficient, but I always thought the formation formed was ammonium poly-sulfide, which dissolves precious metal sulfides and copper sulfide quite readily. All this can still KILL you if you introduce map gas or acetylene into it (touch sensitive even when wet). Gold thiosulfates aka gold thionates operate on the acid side without decomposition (see my previous post) This helps dissolve the pyrites, releasing H2S, which redissolves with thionates affirming their formation. It's still going to stink! You can swing the pH back and forth several times to help disintegrate the ferrite and pyrites (and a whole lot more stink!). In nature it's the pyrites that act as reduction agents reducing gold thiosulfate (gold thionate) to metal. That takes a very long time to work (your grandchildren finishing it for you). This fact plus electric charge from compressed quartz causes the crystals of gold to grow in quartz (slowly). It's not as good to precipitate the gold from the acid side other than with electrodes. I still confirm that steel wool, on the alkaline side around pH 8.6 is the best way to recover your values. Welcome to advanced geochemistry! :p Dr. Poe
 
Cited from Ferrells very first posting:

"My husband & I have been running test samples on 2 1/2 -3 lbs of ore, using 2 /12 to 3 gal of thiosulphate leach, then dropping with ferrous sulfate."

Ferrous sulfate, FeSO4 is used to precipitate gold from strong acid solutions. If a neutral solution of FeSO4 is treated with an alkaline solution, iron(II)hydroxide (Fe(OH)2; green) is precipitated, which is oxidized rapidly by atmospheric oxygen to iron(III)hydroxide (Fe(OH)3; yellow to orange to brownish precipitate). Iron(III)hydroxide on strong heating looses water, finally forming iron(III)oxide (rust), a deep red-brown powder, like shown in your attached pics.

The doubly negative charged thiosulfate-anion; S2O3(2-) decomposes in only weakly acidic solution quickly into elemental sulfur (S) and sulfur dioxide (SO2):

S2O3(2-) + 2 H(+) => S + SO2 + H2O.

Thus, to prepare an acidic thiosulfate leach (pH lower than 7) is impossible. To clear the situation you can do a simple experiment. Take a sample of freshly prepared, unused thiosulfate-leach-solution without leaching an ore-sample, treat it with ferrous sulfate exactly the same way, you did with your test samples and look, what happens.

To me it seems also very important, like others recommended you, to roast your ore, before any further treatment, in an oxygen rich atmosphere, to convert as much as possible sulfidic compounds into SO2 finally. And, as a last recommendation, let analyze (or do it yourself if possible) your ore by the oldfashioned, but IMHO ever now must reliable methods, fire assay and gravimetric analysis. Thus, as a result you have something material in your hand (and on your balance).

Good luck, freechemist
 
We recently realized my husband had premixed a batch of concentrate, and the copper sulfate (being so fine) would settle in spots in the canister. We worried we didn't have ratios correct so a few days ago we did a batch (3 gals of water) using the three ingredients, measuring separately. Wow, what a difference! When we did it before we must have had a much higher % of the thiosulfate, as our ph was always up around 8.5 after adding our ore. This time it was about 7.7....we thought adding ammonium sulphate would raise the ph (from one post we read on this forum), but it drops it quite a bit. We had to add a lot more ammonia to the mix than we've ever done to get the ph up to 9.0.

We do have an excellent ph meter, so no worries there, and we keep new packets of buffer on hand to make sure it's always accurate.

We're also running this time at 105 F (we did it at 80F on past runs but understand it's supposed to be warmer than that--we may try it at 110-120F next time if needed) and we're injecting air and mixing continuously as well. We run for on hr, let settle, drain off and decided to try adding sodium sulfide to drop the metals INSTEAD of the ferrous sulfate we've used in the past.

We did a small test on some leach and added the sodium sulfide. It immediately turned gray/gold and started dropping, but we never saw the ph go down. I know it's supposed to drop VERY fast, and then the ph will shoot up. Is it possible that the ph meter just didn't have a chance to register the drop before it went up? It went from 7.7 (it had dropped ph on its own as it sat for 24 hrs) up to 8.3 after adding the sodium sulfide. We understand we're supposed to 'shock' the leach by adding the sodium sulfide so it will drop the gold, and that the ideal ph is 7 to take it to so it will drop the gold/pm's, but it never showed a drop on the ph....that's our major concern.

We're having challenges getting the ph up on our ore/leach mix without putting in ammonia, and we don't want to go overboard on the ammonia, as we know it can radically affect the leach. At this point, we're typically at around 7.3-7.6 when we mix and add our ore. We're reading more and more now showing it's best to keep the ph under 9 (as opposed to the 9.2 we were first told) and optimum is 8. If that's the case, it's going to take far less ammonia to raise it. Also, we're not certain how much (% wise) copper sulfate to use, as we know that can skew the leach as well, if not correct. We've read the patent and tried to follow that, but it's not super clear on the ratios.

I'll attach a picture later this afternoon when I have my phone.
 
Sorry to give you the news, but something else is dropping your gold. Ferrous sulfate, SO2, SMB, stannous chloride will not drop gold from thiosulfates. The sure method is cementation with steel wool, firing the wool to burn off the sulfur family and take your pick of methods from there. Ferrous sulfate added to sodium aurous thiosulfate precipitates ferrous sulfate or ferrous oxide hydrate. Any gold present was brought down by 'occlusion'. Use the steel wool. You'll be happy with the results.
I am Dr. Poe, PHD Geochemical Research.(32 years as a refiner of refractory ores)
 
Dr. Poe said:
Sorry to give you the news, but something else is dropping your gold. Ferrous sulfate, SO2, SMB, stannous chloride will not drop gold from thiosulfates. The sure method is cementation with steel wool, firing the wool to burn off the sulfur family and take your pick of methods from there. Ferrous sulfate added to sodium aurous thiosulfate precipitates ferrous sulfate or ferrous oxide hydrate. Any gold present was brought down by 'occlusion'. Use the steel wool. You'll be happy with the results.
I am Dr. Poe, PHD Geochemical Research.(32 years as a refiner of refractory ores)

Sounds good to me. Can you be more specific in how I use it? When we're done leaching, draining and filter, do we just drop a piece of steel wool in and let it sit? How many pieces per gallon of leach? How long do we leave it? Is ph a factor? We've been told by one person to get the ph up to 9.2, and another said only up to 8.... taking it to 9.2 requires adding a lot of ammonia, and I think we're defeating ourselves that way.

I'd love some step by step directions on the use of the steel wool if you don't mind? When you say firing the wool, how long/how hot? What form will the gold be in at that point? Thank you so much for your help!
 
Dr. Poe said:
Ferrous sulfate, SO2, SMB, stannous chloride will not drop gold from thiosulfates. Ferrous sulfate added to sodium aurous thiosulfate precipitates ferrous sulfate or ferrous oxide hydrate.

Another quick question besides the ones I asked about using the steel wool....in my previous post I stated we'd switched from Ferrous Sulfate to Sodium Sulfide. Are you also saying that sodium Sulfide won't drop gold from sodium thiosulfate leach? That's what they used in the testing done for the thiosulfate patent.

Also, I'm still learning, but I'm not sure what S02 or SMB stands for?

Thank you!
 
Ferrell said:
Dr. Poe said:
Ferrous sulfate, SO2, SMB, stannous chloride will not drop gold from thiosulfates. Ferrous sulfate added to sodium aurous thiosulfate precipitates ferrous sulfate or ferrous oxide hydrate.

Another quick question besides the ones I asked about using the steel wool....in my previous post I stated we'd switched from Ferrous Sulfate to Sodium Sulfide. Are you also saying that sodium Sulfide won't drop gold from sodium thiosulfate leach? That's what they used in the testing done for the thiosulfate patent.

Also, I'm still learning, but I'm not sure what S02 or SMB stands for?

Thank you!
SO2 stands for sulfur dioxide gas. SMB stands for sodium meta bi-sulfate powder (which releases SO2 in situ (in the reaction).
Sodium sulfide or yellow sodium poly-sulfide. Yellow sodium poly-sulfide is used to dissolve sulfides of metals including gold sulfide (Au2S) . If in the patent, sodium sulfide was used to precipitate gold sulfide, they first acidified the solution to pH3 with Sulfuric acid or with hydrochloric acid.

Concerning the steel wool, don't change the pH. Leave it where it is coming out of the ore. Use 'fine' and I like to use the whole package of 12. I like to give the soak at least one hour, over night is advised. After drying, the steel wool will ignite with a match, but use a propane torch. Smelt the residue with soda ash, borax and a litharge or bismuth trioxide oxidizer/collector. Cupel the prill. Dr. Poe
In addition Doctors of any kind never totally agree on any subject. If we could destroy thiosulfates by simple lowing the pH
to strongly acidic, we would gladly do so, but all that ever happens is a little bit of sulfur is released. The sodium part is just because it's on the alkaline side of seven. Iron, copper, platinum, gold, take your pick of elements make up the rest of a 'thiosulfate' (more correctly call a 'thionate' and can exist at all pH's. Usually the presence of thiosulfates is because someone messed up and didn't roast the ore properly. Using it on purpose is to take advantage of the extreme stability of the gold ionic compound with sulfur (which is more stable than gold cyanides). In South Africa, the leaches take advantage of the duo action of yellow sodium poly-sulfide in combination with sodium or potassium cyanide (actually they use calcium cyanamide which converts to the cyanide by sodium hydroxide) and they use it in a 'carbon-in-pulp' method. They want and get the gold adsorption onto the carbon particles which are leached with hot caustic soda and electrically deposited on steel wool via 4 volts DC. They don't like thiosulfates because thiosulfates ignore the carbon (but not the steel wool).
 
Concerning the steel wool, don't change the pH. Leave it where it is coming out of the ore. Use 'fine' and I like to use the whole package of 12. I like to give the soak at least one hour, over night is advised. After drying, the steel wool will ignite with a match, but use a propane torch. Smelt the residue with soda ash, borax and a litharge or bismuth trioxide oxidizer/collector. Cupel the prill. Dr. Po.

Thank you for all this great information, I'm trying to absorb it and will pass it along to my husband when he gets home in an hr or so. One more quick question....there's been some difference of opinion on what to raise the ph level to when making the thiosulfate leach, and whether to use copper sulfate or not. When we mix the sodium thiosulfate with the ammonium sulfate, we were told to use a very small amt of copper sulfate, as well. Those three put the ph at about 7.5 after we add the ore. Some people on this forum have said the ph needs to be between 9 and 9.2, others have said no more than 8. I believe I remember the patent stating 8 as well. Do you have a recommendation on that? It takes a lot of ammonia to get it up to 9 & above.

We've been using tap water as we're in the country and have a well, so no chlorine, but we're wondering if that's not a good idea and if we should be using distilled? Our well water ph is about 6 or a little higher, but not as high as 7.

We so appreciate all your advice and help and we're exited to try the steel wool. I'm sure we'll be back with more questions, but if we can be as accurate as possible on the leach mix and ph to start with, that will be a huge help.
 
Dr. Poe (or anyone interested)--

We did a test run yesterday on the sodium thiosulfate and the steel wool. Here's what we did.

We took 2 1/2 lbs of our ore (heavily laced with blue clay and black sand), crushed down to 200-250 mesh and mixed up the sodium thiosulfate and ammonium sulfate, leaving out the copper sulfate this time. Per the instructions on the patent to add any form of alcohol to keep preg robbing from happening, we added two capfuls of rubbing alcohol, as well. Our ph was 7, so we added enough ammonia to bring it up to 8.2 (several squirts from a wash bottle). We put our mixer in it and infused air for 2 hrs, then let settle about 4 hrs, and ran the recovered leach through a filter, gathering aprox 2 gal of clean leach.

Last night we took 6 pieces of steel wool, unrolled them and immersed in the bucket of recovered leach....stacked on top of each other it came close to the top of the fluid (this was 1/2 of a package with a cost of $1.50....the full pkg was $3).

This morning we took the steel wool out and placed it in a large glass bowl and we're allowing it to dry. We can already see pockets of gold in spots on the steel wool. We cut a small piece off and placed under a microscope and it's amazing. The strands are completely coated with gold in that pocket.

Now for the questions:
Did we need to use that much steel wool, since each piece isn't totally coated? If we only used half that many pieces, should we pull them apart a bit more to fluff them and give more surface area and stir occasionally? We're putting another piece in this morning just to see if it will capture more, but we're guessing it won't. We're looking at the cost factor vs the amt of acquired gold. Not only the steel wool, but the cost of the propane from a torch. We took a piece of steel wool we cut off last night (fresh), put it on a pan and hit it with the torch off and on for over 5 min., and it only disintegrated by about 1/2. At that rate it's going to take a lot of propane to burn up 6 full pieces to release the gold. I'm guessing you may have suggested using the steel wool only for testing purposes, not for larger recovery efforts?

Any suggestions on that?

Finally, we also have used butyl diglyme for recovering gold from SSN and it works well, but we want to get away from using nitric. According to the thiosulfate patent, you can use solvents for recovery. Do you know or have you tried using butyl diglyme as a recovery method for thiosulfate leach? If so, do you know if you'd follow the same 'rules' as you would for recovery as you do with SSN?

Thank you for any additional information you can give us and please keep it as simple as possible. We neither one have a chemistry background so simple is good. :p
 
Ferrell said:
Dr. Poe (or anyone interested)--

We did a test run yesterday on the sodium thiosulfate and the steel wool. Here's what we did.

We took 2 1/2 lbs of our ore (heavily laced with blue clay and black sand), crushed down to 200-250 mesh and mixed up the sodium thiosulfate and ammonium sulfate, leaving out the copper sulfate this time. Per the instructions on the patent to add any form of alcohol to keep preg robbing from happening, we added two capfuls of rubbing alcohol, as well. Our ph was 7, so we added enough ammonia to bring it up to 8.2 (several squirts from a wash bottle). We put our mixer in it and infused air for 2 hrs, then let settle about 4 hrs, and ran the recovered leach through a filter, gathering aprox 2 gal of clean leach.

Last night we took 6 pieces of steel wool, unrolled them and immersed in the bucket of recovered leach....stacked on top of each other it came close to the top of the fluid (this was 1/2 of a package with a cost of $1.50....the full pkg was $3).

This morning we took the steel wool out and placed it in a large glass bowl and we're allowing it to dry. We can already see pockets of gold in spots on the steel wool. We cut a small piece off and placed under a microscope and it's amazing. The strands are completely coated with gold in that pocket.

Now for the questions:
Did we need to use that much steel wool, since each piece isn't totally coated? If we only used half that many pieces, should we pull them apart a bit more to fluff them and give more surface area and stir occasionally? We're putting another piece in this morning just to see if it will capture more, but we're guessing it won't. We're looking at the cost factor vs the amt of acquired gold. Not only the steel wool, but the cost of the propane from a torch. We took a piece of steel wool we cut off last night (fresh), put it on a pan and hit it with the torch off and on for over 5 min., and it only disintegrated by about 1/2. At that rate it's going to take a lot of propane to burn up 6 full pieces to release the gold. I'm guessing you may have suggested using the steel wool only for testing purposes, not for larger recovery efforts?

Any suggestions on that?

Finally, we also have used butyl diglyme for recovering gold from SSN and it works well, but we want to get away from using nitric. According to the thiosulfate patent, you can use solvents for recovery. Do you know or have you tried using butyl diglyme as a recovery method for thiosulfate leach? If so, do you know if you'd follow the same 'rules' as you would for recovery as you do with SSN?

Thank you for any additional information you can give us and please keep it as simple as possible. We neither one have a chemistry background so simple is good. :p

In 32 years I've not found any short cut around using the steel wool for recovering gold from a thiosulfate leach. Some methods worked a little, but none had a 100% yield as does the steel wool method. You have to judge for yourself how much steel wool to use. It's the recovered gold that will tell you how much to use. It's better when first using this method to err on the side of too much iron wool rather than too little. On your next batch, try using less. If the gold recovery suffers loss, go back and add some more. Do this until you can afford to waste steel wool and have enough data to do some math.
If you decide to use acid to remove some of the steel wool, be sure to burn it thoroughly prior to using any acid.
My preference is not to use acid, but to smelt with fluxes that eat iron like silica and borax. The soda ash is to make a glass of the silica/iron oxide. The slag will be yellow or green depending upon an oxidizing flame or a reducing flame.
A collector of bismuth trioxide (and some iron nails) pools the gold and can be oxidized away by cupellation or a second melt in the furnace under oxidizing conditions with a bone ash or magnesite powder to absorb the bismuth oxide.
I am getting into a bad habit of making run-on sentences. :lol: Dr. Poe
 
Dr. Poe thanks for making that very understandable, it seems like your posts are getting more understandable for me to read.

I have also noticed that sometimes you discuss (similar to two) different thoughts in one sentence, in one paragraph, one (sentence or thought) after the other, only separated by the period, (between) in the two sentences (or thoughts), this confused me in some of your older posts, as I would read it as one thought, I noticed when I separated the sentences, that you were talking about two different things, and I could then understand it much better. Does this make sense?


Ferrell, I am so glad your starting to see the gold, and that your hard work is starting to show color.
 
Dr. Poe said:
If you decide to use acid to remove some of the steel wool, be sure to burn it thoroughly prior to using any acid.
My preference is not to use acid, but to smelt with fluxes that eat iron like silica and borax. The soda ash is to make a glass of the silica/iron oxide. The slag will be yellow or green depending upon an oxidizing flame or a reducing flame.
A collector of bismuth trioxide (and some iron nails) pools the gold and can be oxidized away by cupellation or a second melt in the furnace under oxidizing conditions with a bone ash or magnesite powder to absorb the bismuth oxide.
I am getting into a bad habit of making run-on sentences. :lol: Dr. Poe

Just so I'm clear....are you saying (this is what we assumed from your first post about using a propane torch) that we should try to burn the steel wool first, THEN smelt with fluxes that eat iron? Or are you saying that after the steel wool dries, to go straight to the smelt phase using flux?

We haven't smelted before and while we are somewhat familiar with fluxes, I'd like to be sure....Can you give me specifically, step-by-step what you're saying as far as the use of the soda ash, bismuth, etch?

We're doing a second test run today and we'll use 4 pieces of steel wool instead of 6 and see how it goes. There were large sections of the steel wool on the first batch that didn't have gold clinging to it.
 
Ferrell:... just so I'm clear....are you saying (this is what we assumed from your first post about using a propane torch) that we should try to burn the steel wool first, THEN smelt with fluxes that eat iron? Or are you saying that after the steel wool dries, to go straight to the smelt phase using flux?

The reason to burn, ignite the wool with a torch is to burn off the thiosulfate/sulfide/telluride (that might be present)
that will cause complexing of your gold either in acidic or alkaline solutions. Flux, smelting flux, is an alkaline solution of elements without water. Failure to roast the steel wool will guarantee that at least some of your gold will hang in the slag.
Failure to roast the steel wool will guarantee that at least some of your gold will not be recovered if you use acid to remove iron.
I don't recommend these things frivolously. Even though you couldn't see yellow gold on the other steel wool pads you might have noticed that some of the gray had turned 'Bluish'? Gold also sometimes appears as a rust colored powder mixed in with real rust (iron oxides). So treat the entire reagent (steel wool pads) as if were gold. Next time use less steel wool, but give it a longer soak time.
Let's get more complicated for the moment: Some believe that some gold is encapsulated within iron oxides and pyrites.
The real solution is very fine grinding. Next to that; HCl (muriatic acid) with a little bleach to start. Then when the iron has partially disintegrated, neutralize with sodium hydroxide (not soda ash), bring up the pH to just under 9 (to keep iron hydroxides from forming) and then utilize the sodium thiosulfate or the ammonium thiosulfate leach.
A little copper sulfate (not a lot) helps catalyze the ammonium thiosulfate leach. With the sodium thiosulfate leach, a little bit (again, not a lot) of peroxide followed by aeration (bubbling air through the solution) helps a lot. Don't use peroxide if using the ammonium version. You'll destroy the ammonium ions. Whenever I say "a little bit", I'm talking about a teaspoon,
Not a quart. OK? Have faith! Every ore is different, but falls into a particular category. Eventually you will be able to customize the leaches for your particular ore. Then, God willing, you will prosper financially. Dr. Poe
 
Dr. Poe said:
The reason to burn, ignite the wool with a torch is to burn off the thiosulfate/sulfide/telluride (that might be present)
that will cause complexing of your gold either in acidic or alkaline solutions. Flux, smelting flux, is an alkaline solution of elements without water. Failure to roast the steel wool will guarantee that at least some of your gold will hang in the slag.
Failure to roast the steel wool will guarantee that at least some of your gold will not be recovered if you use acid to remove iron.
I don't recommend these things frivolously. Even though you couldn't see yellow gold on the other steel wool pads you might have noticed that some of the gray had turned 'Bluish'? Gold also sometimes appears as a rust colored powder mixed in with real rust (iron oxides). So treat the entire reagent (steel wool pads) as if were gold. Next time use less steel wool, but give it a longer soak time.
Let's get more complicated for the moment: Some believe that some gold is encapsulated within iron oxides and pyrites.
The real solution is very fine grinding. Next to that; HCl (muriatic acid) with a little bleach to start. Then when the iron has partially disintegrated, neutralize with sodium hydroxide (not soda ash), bring up the pH to just under 9 (to keep iron hydroxides from forming) and then utilize the sodium thiosulfate or the ammonium thiosulfate leach.
A little copper sulfate (not a lot) helps catalyze the ammonium thiosulfate leach. With the sodium thiosulfate leach, a little bit (again, not a lot) of peroxide followed by aeration (bubbling air through the solution) helps a lot. Don't use peroxide if using the ammonium version. You'll destroy the ammonium ions. Whenever I say "a little bit", I'm talking about a teaspoon,
Not a quart. OK? Have faith! Every ore is different, but falls into a particular category. Eventually you will be able to customize the leaches for your particular ore. Then, God willing, you will prosper financially. Dr. Poe


This is all very helpful, thank you. I'll follow up with a couple comments and questions.

Is the reason to use more steel wool that you the greater surface area and increased amt of steel wool creates a bigger 'charge', and fewer pieces will not put enough electric current into the leach to make the process (electroplating) work? We're looking at leaching 50 gal at a time, and I can't imagine trying to purchase enough pieces of steel wool to fill a container that size. We're thinking electrowinning might be the most economical way to go, but until we get enough money together to buy that equipment, we do want to continue this way.

You said the following, and this is where I want to ask specific questions....
The real solution is very fine grinding. Next to that; HCl (muriatic acid) with a little bleach to start. Then when the iron has partially disintegrated, neutralize with sodium hydroxide (not soda ash), bring up the pH to just under 9 (to keep iron hydroxides from forming) and then utilize the sodium thiosulfate or the ammonium thiosulfate leach.
A little copper sulfate (not a lot) helps catalyze the ammonium thiosulfate leach. With the sodium thiosulfate leach, a little bit (again, not a lot) of peroxide followed by aeration (bubbling air through the solution) helps a lot. Don't use peroxide if using the ammonium version. You'll destroy the ammonium ions. Whenever I say "a little bit", I'm talking about a teaspoon, Not a quart.

1. We are grinding the ore down to 200 mesh, but can take it smaller if we need to? We have a 300 mesh screen we can use to filter smaller.

2. Are you saying to start out by 'washing' the ore with a HCL and a little bleach? Let's say we're going to process 4 lbs of ore and use 3 gal of leach. Are you suggesting doing what? soaking with HCL? How much? Any water? You aren't saying straight HCL and bleach?

3. You say 'then when the iron has partially disintegrated'....how do we know that's happened? How long?

4. You say 'bring up the ph to just under 9'....using ammonia? Or something else?

5. "Then utilize the sodium thiosulfate'.....by itself? We've been adding ammonium sulfate at the ratio of 3 to 1 with the sodium thiosulfate. Are you suggesting not adding the ammonium sulfate, or when you say 'the ammonium version' are you meaning sodium thiosulfate with the ammonium sulfate added?

6. "Whenever I say a little I'm talking about a teaspoon'.....per gallon, per 5 gal, per??? I know you wouldn't want to add a teaspoon of copper sulfate for the leach mix for a gal of leach, as that would be way too much. Can you tell I like specific, exact measurements, LOL! We really don't want to do 50 batches working in the dark trying to figure out the right mix, if there's someone out there who knows what's right.

Yes, we've been doing the aeration, but we only have one speed on our air control pressure and it's bubbling pretty heavily. That's a problem?

And the final question (forgive me that this is so long!) in an older post you mentioned that the only way you can drop gold with sodium sulfide in a thiosulfate leach is by dropping the ph value to 3 first using hcl, then adding the sodium sulfide. We did that last night and only got a few grains of something that looks like steel. This was in new leach that didn't have any steel wool in it.

I'm posting a picture (magnified) of some strands of steel wool after soaking overnight in the thio leach we mixed three days ago. IMG_2149.JPG
 
You might try buying your steel wool in bulk. I can't say if this is the best price available but 20 lb. at a time is likely better than by the pack.

http://stores.sobodistribution.com/Categories.bok?category=Carbon+Steel+Wool%3ABulk+Reels%3A20+lbs+Bulk+Reels
 
qst42know said:
You might try buying your steel wool in bulk. I can't say if this is the best price available but 20 lb. at a time is likely better than by the pack.

http://stores.sobodistribution.com/Categories.bok?category=Carbon+Steel+Wool%3ABulk+Reels%3A20+lbs+Bulk+Reels


Thanks so much, I'll look into that!
 

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