anyone ever find scrap at goodwill?

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If the clip is immersed eventually it would deteriortae completely. I would use a jumper with a more acid resistive clip, or immerse the object to be stripped only up to the clip, then reattach the clip on the opposite end and immerse the object to strip the remaining bit of plating.
 
JRH,

Thanks for the update on this let us know what you find out on the concentration of SA. I have a feeling he might be using a diluted version but I am probably wrong on that.

I'v got heavy duty 30 gal drums. If you get ready to use a drum this big you can probably just cut the top out, be sure and leave the suporting top band on the drum and you should be ok. I have had a drum like this for months and no problem to the drum. I guess you could call it my stock pot but no steel in it to drop metals just the left over solutions.
 
JRH said:
If the clip is immersed eventually it would deteriortae completely. I would use a jumper with a more acid resistive clip, or immerse the object to be stripped only up to the clip, then reattach the clip on the opposite end and immerse the object to strip the remaining bit of plating.

I would keep the charger ends away if possible and use #6 copper wire or some extra welding cable for jumpers. And I would wash the charger leads when finished to make sure no chemical residue left to eat at the leads. I need to replace the ones on mine because I haven't done this and they have gotten attacked.
 
The clips are easy to replace if you solder a lug to the end of the wire and seal it.

You can buy heat shrink tubing with a coating of hot glue on the inside or if your frugal ( = cheap) like me, after soldering the lug wipe with a stick of hot glue to apply a thin coat, and allow it to cool before sliding on the heat shrink tube. Then when you shrink the tubing the glue seals the wire and it won't rot from the inside out. This works great for automotive wiring as well.
 
qst42know said:
The clips are easy to replace if you solder a lug to the end of the wire and seal it.

You can buy heat shrink tubing with a coating of hot glue on the inside or if your frugal ( = cheap) like me, after soldering the lug wipe with a stick of hot glue to apply a thin coat, and allow it to cool before sliding on the heat shrink tube. Then when you shrink the tubing the glue seals the wire and it won't rot from the inside out. This works great for automotive wiring as well.

If all you have is regular shrink tubing, a squirt of alcohol-based Silicone sealer, before you shrink it, works great. Don't use the Acetic Acid based sealer (smells like strong vinegar) It's very corrosive to electrical equipment.

My pain is your Gain.
 
Oh my lanta I have made out like a mad man. refinning might be new for me but gold and silver oh no buy sell trade. My mom works at a thrift store were I have dib's on siver not much gold ( now I get all the free computer tower I want now haaa) as far as salvation army I have done killer there. Good will though not soo good they got appraisers around here. there alot of religious nic-nack thrift stores around here I go to and do ok. Best was a marked 14kt 18gm neck lace for $1.00 not twenty years ago but LAST YEAR :lol: . Bust If I'am getting into this refining thing thrift stores are my best friend!!!!
 
Are there precious metals in ALL circuit boards? I know there is in computer parts but want to know if tearing apart old or non-working printers would a good source for boards? Would appreciate any help with this. I am very new to this and i am still trying to learn the different sources of precious metals, specifically gold.
 
sdevers said:
Are there precious metals in ALL circuit boards? I know there is in computer parts but want to know if tearing apart old or non-working printers would a good source for boards? Would appreciate any help with this. I am very new to this and i am still trying to learn the different sources of precious metals, specifically gold.

You can find some stuff in them, but not a lot.

View attachment 20327561-Scrap-Parts-Comp-Identification.pdf
 
Lately We've been doing much better at Goodwill. I've got the wife pretty much trained to sniff out anything worthwhile. She stumbled upon one store in particular that clears out all their old stock jewelry by bagging 2 or 3 pounds at a time and selling the lot for less than $10. We'll grab these whenever they come up and haven't been disappointed with one yet. The bulk of the jewelry is cheap costume garbage that is of no value to anyone except our young nieces that happily get to pick through and take what they want. Then there is plenty of gold plated jewelry thats good for the stripping cell. We always find some sterling in these along with the odd karat gold piece. So far the PM value of the lot always excees the purchase price. For example, the last one we bought had a pair of 22K earrings that weighed out at 3.5g :eek:
 
They are popular here for gold and silver. Mostly the help finds it when rumaging through clothing, purses, etc. upon receipt. You could talk to someone at your local store and be their buyer. Just pay a little more than 50 percent and it's prob yours. You are beating the other local stores. That is if you are refining or have an outlet at close to spot.
 
Scrap is always available at Goodwill, Salvation Army Thrift Stores and Value Village. Gold buyers and gold sellers always check them out. The tricky part is to tell if its precious or plated.
This is a good resource for gold hallmarks and gold stamps http://www.kmggold.com/faq-kmg-plated-precious.cfm
Mike
 
In the area that I live is harder than ever to find such good deals.
For more that 25 years my wife & I have visited the second hand stores, garage & yard sales, flee markets... People have wised up. :|
So for my refining, (& collecting) hobby, my search has taken me to the pawn shops. They have scrap, but charge like .999 & over spot.
I decided to visit a coin store where a good friend of my son works & the photo shows the scrap they sell. 6 of the 10 coins are stamped .999 the other 4 sterling. I paid for 10oz., he gave my 12 for my money. I know where to go now for my scrap silver. :lol:

Oh, we'll still be hoping from g sale to g sale, the second hand stores & gold panning... it's all prospecting! :p

philddreamer
 

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Chumbawamba said:
more recently I've been timidly acquiring gold-rimmed glasses
There are a lot of gold colored frames out there not worth squat.

Look on the inside of the nose bridge. The good ones say 12K 1/20 GF or simular. Some could be 1/10. some only say 12K GF, those are probably 1/20th. Other GF sources fountain pen nibs and older watches. Believe it or not I have bought a few Spidel twist-o-flex gold filled bands. usually only the top parts are GF. Everything else is stainless and springs.
 
I found a couple of gold plated frames outside of the display enclosures. I guess the store read a different set of numbers &thought they were not gold plated. I took one look & knew they were the real thing. In europe they use a different mark, 2 digits, a square, 2 digits. I check the net & found one outfit that comfirmed my hunch. Stepper_Mens_Metal Au Plated has a catalog & shows the different numerations.

Keep that in mind, my friends, next time you see them golden spectacles! :lol:

philddreamer
 
Gold plate doesn't require the markings of gold filled. Gold filled is a specific quantity and karat of gold based on the weight of the item, gold plate can be much thinner than filled.

The numbers you found have to do with fit of the eyeglasses. A 56[]14, means simply a 56mm lens at 14mm apart.

Glasses with these markings can have any number of finishes, paint, chrome, brass, or yes even a small amount of gold.
 
I just read this thread and hit up the goodwill closest to me.
I got 3 grams of 14k for 25$ total!
Im adding that place into my list for places to search
 
I have 8 Goodwills in my area that I have been buying gold plated china and silver plated things. About a month ago I bought a pair of candle sticks that were sterling silver for $10. After I took the weights out of them I had 131g of sterling silver.......best find yet! And no, I didn't destroy good candle sticks.....they were all dented up. Larry
 

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