CPU pins & DDR foils

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You keep asking how long it takes. The answer is, it takes as long as it takes. There are too many variables here to guess at how long it would take to finish.

For example: A small batch of just the fingers from ram, let's say 10 fingers, could possibly be done in a couple of days. But a larger batch with other things in the solution, like tin and lead, will take longer. I've had a batch of pins that took almost a month to completely leach the copper away.

Being in a hurry will only make more trouble for you and create allot more waste. Just leave your current batch in the solution and take this time to search the forum and study. The chemicals will continue to work while you read and learn.

Ps. Please stop watching YouTube. 90% of those videos are faked and full of misinformation. Its a good way to hurt yourself or others.

I hope you take everyone's advice here and you get yourself a big ol' button of gold for all of your trouble. :D
 
EDIT: you say that I don't need H2O2 even at the beginning. Just put the material in the jar, cover with HCL and put bubbler?

It would be better than what you are doing now, by overuse of H2O2.

If you burn fine gold with a chloride salt, some of your gold will burn up in the smoke, the chlorine gas, and fine gold, the gold into the fumes along with the other dangerous gases.
 
I noticed I have few small condensators, which I did not remove from DDR sticks, but this is problem of filtration.I dont think so ( peroxide overuse ) but if you say so thats it. In my country chemical and all other product is bad quality, It wont wonder me even if inside is distiled water. You say that Im abusing peroxide, how much peroxide you would put on 1 dL of 10% HCL. Do really 10% Acid work without H2O2?

butcher said:
It would be better than what you are doing now, by overuse of H2O2.

If you burn fine gold with a chloride salt, some of your gold will burn up in the smoke, the chlorine gas, and fine gold, the gold into the fumes along with the other dangerous gases.
Click to expand...

Next batch is DDR sticks without condensators, and only with HCL and bubbler. How time is needed for this reaction?

Quote for part " If you burn fine gold with a chloride salt, some of your gold will burn up in the smoke, the chlorine gas, and fine gold, the gold into the fumes along with the other dangerous gases."

You saying this for SIM cards incineration? If so what method is btter then? Do Sim cards contain chloride salts? What is better method? HCL and bubbler without H2O2 or to more dilute acid and add only a drop of peroxide?

And man can you finnaly tell me is 12 - 16 hours enough for Acid Peroxide enough, how to know that it is over? Thanks in advance :)
 
what do you call condensators?
Capacitors, or condensers?

With study, you gain an understanding, then use that understanding of how the process works to judge time, with this study you can learn to speed up reactions where needed and slow down other reactions...

You will find all of the answers to your questions when you study, you will also learn of answers you will not even be able to think of yet, like how silver and gold can become volatile as chlorides especially at high temperatures and go up in the smoke.

In this leach we trade speed for selectivity, we are not as concerned about how fast we can dissolve metal, but more concerned about being selective in which metals we dissolve no matter how long it takes.
 
worker0 said:
And man can you finnaly tell me is 12 - 16 hours enough for Acid Peroxide enough, how to know that it is over? Thanks in advance :)
Click to expand...

I've never had an acid / peroxide leach work that fast. 12-16 hours would be really fast if it was a good sized batch. In my opinion anyway. In my experience that process can take over 100 hours. Especially with dilute chemicals and if it's cold outside. You know it's done when all the "foils" are loose and there is no more copper on the parts in the solution.
 
If you have a lot of material like you say I would spend the time separating everything into like materials and reading up on some more of the forum.

I would heat the acid because you only have 10%hcl and you add too much peroxide so it is a lot of water in there. If it’s cold it could take a lot longer. No need to boil but a cold solution is a slow one.

12-16 hours in my opinion isn’t very long of a wait for a fresh batch of CuCl that is basically @92% water in your case.

I’m pretty sure that you won’t get anywhere by putting ceramic cpu in that hcl leach but I could be wrong.
 
Maybe you can find anhydrous ferric chloride for PCBs etching. I used to buy it for PCBs. It was a Black and Tan kind of powder and was mixed with water so it could be made pretty strong. From what I remember it was very fast.
 
But what to do with SIM cards ? Acid Peroxide dont work. They get copper color and thats it. Burning them and then melting? Or do AR ?

EDIT: just seen video of a guy which dissolve sim cards in Acid-Peroxide ( HCL acid ) solution and participate gold with SMB, does this work or it is fake?
 
I think SIM cards will do fine in CuCl, you probably aren’t leaving them in long enough. I only say to try to get dry ferric chloride because you don’t need to add acid only water, Since you can only get weak hcl.
 
And really, at the end of the day, if they best you can get is 10% HCl, then maybe Gold recovery and refining in your location is not something you should waste your time pursuing ?
 
kernels said:
And really, at the end of the day, if they best you can get is 10% HCl, then maybe Gold recovery and refining in your location is not something you should waste your time pursuing ?
Click to expand...

I can order, about 30% HCL and ??% Nitric acid, urea and sodim metabuslfite. Im thinking about Aqua Regia...

Is it possible that SMB recover dissolved gold from HCL - peroxide solution?

Williamjf77 said:
I think SIM cards will do fine in CuCl, you probably aren’t leaving them in long enough. I only say to try to get dry ferric chloride because you don’t need to add acid only water, Since you can only get weak hcl.
Click to expand...

Gold foils dont peal off sim cards, gold dissapear and copper under gold foil start to to change color to rust like, but there is no even trace of gold foil. When gold dissapear in CuCL / AP proccess, how to recover it? With copper cementation? First class copper into solution and wait to to gold stick to copper, or to put SMB?
 
Worker0
I think that the rust color you describe is actually your gold.
By adding too much peroxide you dissolve the gold and it cements out as a fine cinnamon/brown color powder.
The AP leaching needs plenty of time, maybe even weeks, depending of conditions.
You need HCl and a splash (cap full) of peroxide to start it, after that no more peroxide is needed.
Patience is probably our best asset :D
 
Yggdrasil said:
Worker0
I think that the rust color you describe is actually your gold.
By adding too much peroxide you dissolve the gold and it cements out as a fine cinnamon/brown color powder.
The AP leaching needs plenty of time, maybe even weeks, depending of conditions.
You need HCl and a splash (cap full) of peroxide to start it, after that no more peroxide is needed.
Patience is probably our best asset :D
Click to expand...

Clolor is something between light cinnamon and light red-ish?

So basicly, I need to put SIM cards in, cover with HCL + add just few drops H2O2, put bubbler in, and forget on it for etc 1 week? Then gold foils will "peal" off ?

How to recover gold from cemented copper?
 
If the gold has cemented out on the copper it willl emerge as a powder as soon as it has ben stirred enough and/or the copper has been dissolved.
In other words:
The said gold are then not in flakes anymore, but in powder form.
Another thing to remember here (correct me if I'm wrong) is that most of the gold is in the chip inside.
(Inside a black polymer blob I think) Which will not be accessible until the sim has been properly pyrolized and incinerated.

If I remember correct, Tzoax, Kjavanb and a few others have a few threads about this.

It is still wise to clean the foils/powders thorough in HCl before they are refined, you will get much cleaner gold then :D
 
I never processed them or paid much attention to how they are processed. in fact, I really do not know much about sim cards.

The paper will soak up acids and dissolved metals, the leach needs access to the metal.
Any aluminum or other metal cases removed...

Many times the gold you can see is not much at all but there is more gold in tiny bonding wires.
visible gold on the pad is not much gold, inside the microchip, there are most likely gold bonding wires where the real gold is.
I would incinerate to get to the gold or to all of the base metals...
You could even use flux and a little collector metal.

Now that we can get to the metals we could dissolve everything and cement out what we will. or leach the base metals away from the gold first...
 
butcher said:
I never processed them or paid much attention to how they are processed. in fact, I really do not know much about sim cards.

The paper will soak up acids and dissolved metals, the leach needs access to the metal.
Any aluminum or other metal cases removed...

Many times the gold you can see is not much at all but there is more gold in tiny bonding wires.
visible gold on the pad is not much gold, inside the microchip, there are most likely gold bonding wires where the real gold is.
I would incinerate to get to the gold or to all of the base metals...
You could even use flux and a little collector metal.

Now that we can get to the metals we could dissolve everything and cement out what we will. or leach the base metals away from the gold first...
Click to expand...

You said that incineration is bad for SIM cards because some gas will destroy gold.

Yes there is gold " wires" inside it. under copper/ gold.

My plan was to put them in metal dish, and heat it until plastic evaporate. Collect leftover and try gravity filtration if it is possible to remove ash ( if there is any ). Then melt, and run AR if it is les than 16/18 karat.

I educated myself @butcher about process and read a lot. Plan for AR is next:

1. all precaution measures to prevent environmental polution, and protect myself!

2. Put material in glass dish.
3. Cover with HCL
4. Slowly add nitric acid ( even drop by drop ) until reaction is started.
5. When all is dissolved, add urea dissolved in water drop by drop until solution stop react on urea.
6. Slowly shot it with SMB - double of the ammount of gold disolved.
7. Melt

Is there any mistake?
 
You said that incineration is bad for SIM cards because some gas will destroy gold.

I never remember saying such a thing, I may warn about incinerating chlorides with gold or silver...



My plan was to put them in a metal dish, and heat it until plastic evaporate. Collect leftover and try gravity filtration if it is possible to remove ash ( if there is any ). Then melt, and run AR if it is less than 16/18 karat.

Where did the 18 karat gold come from? I thought you were working with those little phone cards?

I educated myself @butcher about process and read a lot. Plan for AR is next:

1. all precaution measures to prevent environmental pollution, and protect myself!

How, how are you keeping the fumes from polluting your area, did you study how to re-burn these dangerous gases with a simple afterburner design? how are you dealing with toxic waste?

2. Put material in a glass dish.
3. Cover with HCL
4. Slowly add nitric acid ( even drop by drop ) until the reaction is started.
5. When all is dissolved, add urea dissolved in water drop by drop until the solution stop react on urea.

Urea is dangerous and useless.

6. Slowly shot it with SMB - double of the amount of gold dissolved.
I do not understand how you shot it with SMB, and double the amount of dissolved gold?

7. Melt

Sounds like you have studied youtube, or in the wrong places, and need to put away the acids and study more before you begin.

Is there any mistake?
 
Slowly add SMB in acid mix and it will requier about 2x more SMB then gold dissolved in acid.

In some other topic you stated that Urea is needed for removing excess of nitric acid, which wont be needed in this case because I will use little as much possobe nitric acid.

And yes. Oxy "afterburner" which can burn up to 3000C

And yes, melt after filtration.
 
Sulfamic acid is helpful to remove free nitric from aqua regia.
Ferrous sulfate will also work to de-NOx an aqua regia solution and precipitate the gold, where sodium metabisulfite cannot effectively de-NOx the solution...



In some other topic, you stated that Urea is needed for removing the excess of nitric acid, which won't be needed in this case because I will use little as much possible nitric acid.

Can you show me the topic where I said that?
I do not remember recommending using urea?



I may have said urea is not needed, and I may have said urea nitrate is an explosive compound, I may have said urea is useless, I may have said that urea it is an ok fertilizer for growing grass, I may have said urea will not remove free nitric acid from aqua regia...
 

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