how to build an acid resistant hood & scrubber _hood_

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Hi Mike
Thanks for telling me that because I was going to buy the fans today
So than I will have to buy something more powerful
like 2 of these

http://www.shopbot.ca/ps-fantech-pb230h-2-white-pb-230-cfm-bathroom-exhaust-fan-pb230h-2-21859564.html
 
golddie said:
Hi Mike
Thanks for telling me that because I was going to buy the fans today
So than I will have to buy something more powerful
like 2 of these

http://www.shopbot.ca/ps-fantech-pb230h-2-white-pb-230-cfm-bathroom-exhaust-fan-pb230h-2-21859564.html
Click to expand...

Those are pretty expensive units. Go to Home Depot and get you a cheap unit to test till you are sure it is the road you want to take.

No offense but with all the trouble you are having with this you should build you a bench outside with a box fan blowwing the fumes away from you till you get this hood working the way you want.
 
Hi Golddie

I personally wouldn't buy those fans for 2 reasons. First off you want to stay away from metal housings. The fans I use are all plastic except for the fan motor and bracket. Second is the price. Wow those are expensive....lol.
When I chose mine I figured if I could get a years worth of continuos use before the motor started giving me trouble it was cheap maintenance and all I would have to do is remove 2 screws and replace the motor assembly.

240 cfm will work for if all you want these fans to do is exhaust the hood area without the use of your scrubber system. The scrubber I would keep as a separate system on it's own. Again, that's my personal opinion.

If you are matching my design of the plexiglas front and wanting to keep an area open all the time for doing your work you can try what I am doing now. Again, my work opening is 46"L x 10"H. I cut a piece of cardboard that would block off part of my opening 22"L x 10"H that I just move side to side to allow me full access to my hood. The remaining opening is now 24"L x 10"H = 240 square inches, thus 240 cfm of fan is needed. It does work much better doing this. Eventually I'm going to cut 2 pieces of plexiglas the proper size and hinge them on each side of my opening and use a magnetic catch to keep them in the open position.

Mike
 
Hi Mike
That idea is fantastic
This way I can save some money and also have my hood working properly.
I will also place something in the area where I am not planning on using I think it will be easy with duct tape or aluminum tape.
Thanks very much
 
I was just at my local hardware to buy a 120cfm bathroom fan and I found the prices steep
Here in Canada things are more expensive than the USA.
for a 110 cfm I would have to pay $172.00

I found something on special and it was
80 cfm for $ 42.99
If I buy 3 of them that will be 240 cfm and that's good for what I need
The frame is galvanized steel and the fan looks like squirrel cage
They look something like these
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-FV-08VQ3-WhisperCeiling-Ceiling-Mounted/dp/B001DESY7S
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=902883&Ntt=902883&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber
The hole where the air goes in is about 7 feet by 7 feet
the hole where the air exits is about 2 and a half inches
The fan was plastic but I did see lots of metals
This is how the layout would look
You don't need to be a brain surgeon to figure out that this will work but I want to ask your opinion
http://img808.imageshack.us/f/37090976.jpg/

Thanks
 
My local hardware had fans have a housing that is galvanized steel and not powerful enough and too expensive.

http://www.rewci.com/120-cfm-high-performance-fan.html
I am going to e-mail these people and see how fast they can deliver
I will buy 2 and make it like Mikes because they are better than the ones sold at my local hardware and if I bought a powerful motor and attach it the the fume hood that the hole hood is going to shake
 
Hi Goldie,

Let me know if these folks won't ship to Canada. When I bought mine they drop shipped them from the manufacturer. If they won't ship to you, you can have them ship to me and I'll UPS them to you. Send me a PM if this is the case and we can swap addresses.

Mike
 
Hi Mike
I ordered 2 of them and they are going to ship to Canada
Thanks very much for your help
 
I mounted the Plexiglas on yesterday but it is 1 eight of an inch Plexiglas.
I had already bought this Plexiglas because I was going to make it with tracks and that was the thickness of the tracks, now that I am going to make it like Mikes fume they are thinner that his.
I don't know if this will be a problem but I will test it and if I see that it should be changed than I will buy a quarter of an inch Plexiglas
 
When thinking about managing fumes, you have to think "pressure differentials".

If you have your fumehood in an enclosed room, you fume extraction isn't going to work very well, because you fan is working it's guts out lowering the pressure in the room and once it gets to a certain pressure differential, it's going to run out of puff ad there will be no futher air extraction.

You HAVE to have a source of fresh air somewhere else in the room or things will not go as planned.

If you pressurise the room from another location with a big-arse fan, and the fume hood air exit is the only way the air can get out of the room, then you won't even NEED a fan inside the fume hood :)

If you have a fume hood that's not quite enough capacity, it may be a much easier and cheaper solution to pressurise the room slightly, rather than having to re-build the fan hood with bigger fans and pipes.
 
Hi Drewbie
I am going to do some testing tomorrow with the the door open and try different ways.
I have placed the Plexiglas in the front of the fume hood and I think that should make a big difference
I already ordered those 2 fans and I would like to install them there but I am not sure
I guess I will see with time what I will do exactly

Hi Mike
I tried to do my siphoning inside the fume hood and it was difficult
It is easier for me to do this outside but I am trying to do it inside the fume hood
Where do you siphon
I placed a portable light there but I would like to have something like what you have, those florescence light look like what I might put in there.
Can you tell me more about that
Thanks
 
Hi golddie

I do my siphoning outside but directly in front of my hood. I keep my main beaker at the hood opening and my waste container on the floor. You will get some smell obviously but it's at a minimum if you keep it in the path of the fresh air drawn into the fume hood. Buckets are done on the floor in front of the fume hood also.
My light is just a basic 4' twin tube 32-watt fluorescent shop light. I mounted it as close to my hood opening as possible to keep it out of the direct fumes. My final light setup will be a Vapor Proof fluorescent although so far I show no signs of corrosion on my original setup.

Mike
 
You can cut a hole in the top of your hood and mount a piece of heavey duty plexiglass and put the light on top of the hood. The plexiglass can be a barrier between the inside of your hood and your light.
 
Barren Realms 007 said:
You can cut a hole in the top of your hood and mount a piece of heavey duty plexiglass and put the light on top of the hood. The plexiglass can be a barrier between the inside of your hood and your light.
Click to expand...

I looked at doing that originally but found that the additional cost of the Plexiglas, the additional framing needed to cut a 48" x 12" opening and having to seal up another hole, constructing some kind of a mounting base for the light. It ended up being cheaper and less time consuming to purchase a Vapor/Moisture Proof light.

Mike
 
Emmjae said:
Barren Realms 007 said:
You can cut a hole in the top of your hood and mount a piece of heavey duty plexiglass and put the light on top of the hood. The plexiglass can be a barrier between the inside of your hood and your light.
Click to expand...

I looked at doing that originally but found that the additional cost of the Plexiglas, the additional framing needed to cut a 48" x 12" opening and having to seal up another hole, constructing some kind of a mounting base for the light. It ended up being cheaper and less time consuming to purchase a Vapor/Moisture Proof light.

Mike
Click to expand...

Your making it too difficult, all that is needed is to cut the hold, cut the plexiglass, screw the plexiglass down on top of the hood seal it with some silicone and set the light on top of it.
 
4metals way is good but a bit of work
If you do it like Mikes the only problem is that the screws will rust
For that problem you can always paint the screws with oil paint
 
I boiled some nitric and water today and the fume hood was perfect
It wasn't a big batch but still it was a big improvement from last time
The difference this time was that I had the door open and also I had a Plexiglas in the front of the fume hood like mikes
The problem is not over because I don't like the smell of the lye and I am saying maybe I can use the scrubber without lye and use only water.
The first day I mixed the lye in the scrubber the smell wasn't this much
It seems like the smell is very strong
As you all know I have the blower from my oven that I am able to use in the room and still it does not help
 

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