how to build an acid resistant hood & scrubber _hood_

[2002valkyrie]

On the other hand, Garden Lime shows to only have small amounts of Crystalline Sillica which can be avoided with a good dust mask (I use a Dual Cartridge Respirator ) because airborne sillica is baad for your lungs (lung disease & cancer).
So I will be doing the same as lazersteve.

 

[eeTHr]

Does anyone know the danger factor of lime in solution as compared to lye in solution?

Is a more dilute solution significantly less dangerous than a saturated solution?

My thought is to bring the water up only a couple of pH numbers with lye, and monitor it to keep it from dropping much below 7.

If the lime or lye solution is at 7, is it still dangerous?

What should I do to it before discarding it? Make it acidic and put in some copper to drop any PMs, then iron to drop the copper and other metals, then bring the pH back up to 7 to discard?

 

[LeftyTheBandit]

This is so red neck I love it.

Sorry to take such a great subject and turn it into a "redneck" thread. I am in awe of you all on this forum and hope to join in your ranks someday but I must start with minimal investment which requires me to look around and use what items I have on hand. The only thing I have purchased is gold and I plan to sell it.

I fear my comments were recieved incorrectly. I'm in aw of your ingenuity and ability to use what is available and use it successfully.

I look forward to hearing more on the subject and your ongoing adventure!

 

[eeTHr]

Lefty;

Nope, not at all. Just the opposite. I appreciated it! I guess I should have said "thanks."

In all honesty, though, I do have to admit that I'm not a full-fledged redneck. When my porch collapsed, only three dogs died.

 

[goldnugget77]

Hi Folks
I found a big pvc barrel I think its 55 gallons
I have started to turn this barrel into a scrubber.
I went to my local hardware and the fitting to attach the pipe to the barrel does not have a hole that is 3 inches.

Here 4metals in his diagram has written 3 inches.
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=4776&start=0

The fitting for the pipe I found had a 1 inch hole
Can anyone tell me if this will be a problem
Should I try to find a fitting attachment that is absolutely 3 inches.
I have to make a special trip for this and if I can do with the one I already have than that would be great
Thanks

 

[2002valkyrie]

A 1" hole will restrict the volume of air that can be moved. If you plan to keep the door shut on your hood you will be fine, but if you are like me and need to open the door often I recomend 3" hole just to remove the fumes as fast as they develop. Just to be safe I would go with the 3" hole because it is better to do it right than to do it twice.

 

[goldnugget77]

Hi 2002valkyrie
Thanks for your reply
I guess it would be a good idea to have a door to the fume hood.

Here in this picture they have a narrow pipe
But I agree with you that its better to do it right in the first place
Its just that I have to run around trying to find these fittings and the pipes
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6682/31958772.jpg

About the door for the fume hood
what would be a good material
I thought about window glass
Thanks

 

[goldnugget77]

Hi 2002valkyrie
Take a look at the pipes in this picture
They are very narrow
Maybe I can use those narrow fittings
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=4776&start=20

 

[2002valkyrie]

Hi 2002valkyrie

Thanks for your reply
I guess it would be a good idea to have a door to the fume hood

.
If you can move enough air to keep your work area clear of fumes no door is needed except when not in use.

Here in this picture they have a narrow pipe
But I agree with you that its better to do it right in the first place
Its just that I have to run around trying to find these fittings and the pipes
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6682/31958772.jpg

This picture is of a very nice lab and money was not a big issue when it was designed. So you can bet that ventilation goes a little futher than the small pipes in the picture, I would bet that it has 2 systems to handle the fumes 1 that is treating the primary fumes and 1 to treat the fumes that might escape into the room.

About the door for the fume hood
what would be a good material
I thought about window glass
Thanks

Yes glass is a very good door material. Hoke states you can use a home window and frame that is made of wood, we have good caotings to protect the wood now so it would last for a long time.

 

[Anonymous]

Are you guys sealing the fume hood? Or I guess a better question would be, do you need are flow to carry the fumes through your scrubber.

Jim

 

[2002valkyrie]

Are you guys sealing the fume hood? Or I guess a better question would be, do you need are flow to carry the fumes through your scrubber.

Jim

I have sealed mine good enough to keep out any critters I don't want in it. But I have installed a stainless steel screen on the door to allow it to breath but still has a negitive preasure in the hood.

 

[Harold_V]

About the door for the fume hood what would be a good material
I thought about window glass
Thanks

You might consider paying to have it tempered. Tempered glass is much tougher, and will not break into shards that can injure.

Harold

 

[Palladium]

If you’re looking for some tempered glass here is a trick that will serve you well. Having been in commercial construction on and off for some years you get to meet the owners of all your sub companies. I've been to more than a couple commercial glass companies. These companies, usually even the small ones, have a couple of pan dumpsters behind there offices or shops. They generate a lot of glass scrap wastes. When they go out and replace or remove these store fronts they have to take the glass with them and they dispose of it at the shop. They usually all come in around 4:00 pm. If you catch them then they will have loads to choose from on their trucks. All they do is throw in the dumpsters and break it. You can then have them cut it to length inside, for a fee of course. But for about $ 20-30 you can get it cut and even get some holes drilled for hinges. You can bolt some hinges to the glass for mounting. Just remember it glass, but yeah it can be done.

I once had the chance to get a truck load of thick plate glass. Like the kind they use in glass front service stations. I just didn't have the means to store it or off load it at the time. The manufacturer mis cut the glass by 2 in short and the whole load was scraped and paid for by insurance. The glass is not the most expensive part. It's the cutting or re cutting and re handling of everything that makes it cheaper to just scrap it and start over rather than trying to back up. I was planning on building another house and incorporating the glass into a whole wall facing off the mountain side. Would have looked great and nobody would have been the wiser that it didn't cost a fortune. Why is it people think that to impress some body you have to tell them how much you over paid for something. That just tells me you’re an idiot. If you want to impress me tell me how much you saved on something. Anyway find a commercial glass company. Almost all towns have at least a small one.

 

[butcher]

have not followed thread closely, if using a plastic drum a window can be made from a plexy glass, easily shaped with heat. the window would not nessarily have to be in door, even maybe just a small window to peep inside, may all that is nessary. I like this Idea you brains are cooking up.

 

[Refiner232121]

I have a 55 gallon pvc drum that I am going to use as a scrubber.
I would like to buy a pump that is acid resistant.
How about this one
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3WY87?Pid=search

I think this is good enough for my scrubber.
What do you folks think
Should the pump be more powerful.
Thanks

 

[dick b]

Hello:

I would think that 4 gal per min at a 10 foot head should be powerful enough. It depends a lot on your choice for a spary bar and the size of nozzle that you intend to use. If your thinking of a spray similar to a shower head in the bath tub, then you should be ok. If your thinking of a finer spray like a paint or chemical sprayer has then you probably won't get enough pressure to atomize the fluid.

The size of the reservoir that you intend to have will also affect the size of the pump because if your only holding say 5 gals of fluid, then the pump would run the tank dry before it can return from the scrubber. Plus the larger the fluid capacity, the longer time before the ph will changed from the scrubbing action. I'm thinking that 15gal should be a good startng point. Ideally you want to keep the fluid in the 6 to 8 range for the best scrubbing action.

That price pump may be necessary, but I'm planning on using something less expensive to start with and may end up there, because I think it looks like a good choice.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SIMER-ELECTRIC-SUBMERSIBLE-UTILITY-WATER-sump-PUMP_W0QQitemZ300361446341QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45eeeff3c5

I have a small pump like this one and plan to start with it. Then I'll go from there as needed. You are just trying to keep the media wet, not flood the scrubber.

Good luck.

dickb

 

[Refiner232121]

Hi dick b
The pump you are referring to doesn't say acid resistant

 

[dick b]

Hello again:

Yes your correct, the one I already have is similar to that one only smaller.

As long as the PH is maintained around 7 or neutral, then as the acid or base is absorbed, the fluid will move one way or the other way on the PH scale. The further it goes to 1 or 14 the more damage it will cause to the pump and seals.

So, by monitoring the PH level in the tank and adjusting to PH back to neutral the less damage to the pump will occur.

After you use the system for a time and learn how long it takes to change the PH and how much and how often you need to check it, the easier it will become to operate the system. If your reacting with acids and you let the PH in the scrubber go to 1, it will stop absorbing the acid fumes from your exhaust and no scrubbing action will take place. The same is true for the opposite reaction if your using bases for the reaction.

So for the system to operate properly, you have to monitor the PH level in the tank.

When all is said and done, you and I may find out the your original choice is the best one. When you develop a prototype, these are the things that you learn as you gain experience with what your doing.

Good luck.
dickb

 

[butcher]

I have pumps that come out of old equiptment that use tubing and rollers, the acid only flows through tubing. there are other pumps that use no shaft seal (place for problem with strong chemicals, they are of plastic type and use magnets to turn impellers, there are also teflon diaphram type pumps, if using a pump for acid I would make sure it did not use a seal or metal that the acid being used would attack, also acid ressistant does not nessarily mean acid proof, check it out also check out the plastic if it can handle the acid you plan to use it on, I believe granger catalog had a chart that gave acid corrosion of metals and plastics in there catalogs,

just for fun here is some idea's:
vacuum pump, a barrel sitting on table, valve at bottom and one one top, this can be pvc, this barrel is sealed meaning no holes or open bungs, a hose attatched to top valve for suction hose, barrel filled with water, when bottom valve opened to drain water from barrel creates suction at your hose on top valve, this hose can go to a suction fluid collector vessel, lid two holes, our suction hose just through lid, and another collector hose to the liquid or gas we wish to sypher or suck out.

another use for this same barrel with two valves, if filled with a liquid or acid, a hose on bottom and if we pumped air into top valve the air pressure would pump liquid out and up hill from bottom valve.

 

[Palladium]

http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/ChemComp.asp