how to build an acid resistant hood & scrubber _hood_

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just for fun here is some idea's:
vacuum pump, a barrel sitting on table, valve at bottom and one one top, this can be pvc, this barrel is sealed meaning no holes or open bungs, a hose attatched to top valve for suction hose, barrel filled with water, when bottom valve opened to drain water from barrel creates suction at your hose on top valve, this hose can go to a suction fluid collector vessel, lid two holes, our suction hose just through lid, and another collector hose to the liquid or gas we wish to sypher or suck out.
another use for this same barrel with two valves, if filled with a liquid or acid, a hose on bottom and if we pumped air into top valve the air pressure would pump liquid out and up hill from bottom valve.
Click to expand...


This does not seem logical for this application, to run a scrubber the pump must be a constant cycle. Also you are forgetting the scrubber should start as a mild base and will become acid after use. This is where monitoring the solution comes in handy. When it becomes acidic you should add acid reducer (PH adjuster) to protect your pump as well as maintain the effectiveness of the scrubber.
 
the barrel etc. was not posted for the scrubber project, or other specific use, just as general information, ideas, speaking of that don't forget asperators , and jet pumps.
 
goldnugget77 said:
Hi Folks
I found a big pvc barrel I think its 55 gallons
I have started to turn this barrel into a scrubber.
I went to my local hardware and the fitting to attach the pipe to the barrel does not have a hole that is 3 inches.
Click to expand...

People... Please read the posted material before you comment. It is fustrating to have someone post information that does not help the person asking for it.

butcher said:
the barrel etc. was not posted for the scrubber project, or other specific use, just as general information, ideas, speaking of that don't forget asperators , and jet pumps.
Click to expand...

Gerneral ideas should be posted here: http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=39 Not under the Help category.
 
valkyrie, I was trying to help Dick b, with his question about an acid resistant pump, and also giving him other idea's that may help him or others looking for an acid resistant pump to use. yes the one I described was not for his specific application, but if you read back further on this scrubber project, not every one will be building the scrubber the same way, some others may need a source for vacuum, or vaccuum pump,maybe you go not need this information, but others may find it helpful, if not, I have just wasted my time typing it.

I wonder what you mean by this comment?
People... Please read the posted material before you comment. It is fustrating to have someone post information that does not help the person asking for it.
I found that to be a rude comment.
general idea should only be posted in one place ?
if I am looking for a pump to use for a project I would hope if someone had an Idea I could use, and if that information was not needed by me then, maybe I could use the information in another project, I would wish they would post that idea, in the same post that I was asking questions of whether this pump would work.

the barrel can work and is good to use in scrubber's, maybe not the type you are building, and it was my thought this topic was scrubbers, not necessarly only one type.

valkyrie sorry for interupting your forum
 
does anyone have any ideas for using activated carbon to further return cleaner air?
i have fifty pounds of it and was woundering if it should be used before the scrubber or after?
i am making my setup out of polycarbonate (plexiglass) . i am thinking to use it after the scrubber.
any help would be awsome.
thanks,
harvey
 
goldbanger said:
does anyone have any ideas for using activated carbon to further return cleaner air?
i have fifty pounds of it and was woundering if it should be used before the scrubber or after?
i am making my setup out of polycarbonate (plexiglass) . i am thinking to use it after the scrubber.
any help would be awsome.
thanks,
harvey
Click to expand...

I just wish I had activated carbon, I'm using charcoal in a 6 gallon container after the scruber before my 6 horse power shop vac. The scrubed fumes are directed into the bottom of the container with the Vac hose at the top... I like it! There is no smell at all, even during the heavy work.


In my diagram I have a 55 gallon plastic drum for a work area (hood) the door is 1.5" from the bottom in case of spills, the exhaust is 3" pvc pipe and goes into a 3" x 4" elbo with a 4" pvc pipe going down 3' to a 4" elbo with 4" pipe 5' long, going to a 4" x 6" elbo with a 6" pvc pipe going up 4' with a 6 gallon bucket (with a hole in the bottom for the pipe) the 6" pipe pokes through the bottom of the bucket 2" and has 1" holes drilled around the side of the pipe. Inside the bucket is the bottom 3" of a 5 gallon bucket upside down over the pipe (1/2" holes in it random but not over the pipe) Charcoal in the 6 gallon bucket on top of the 5 gallon bottom. A 6 hp shop vac hose is attached to the top of the 6 Gallon charcoal bucket.There is 6" of lye water in the pvc pipe (this was optimal for this set up )remember to put a ball valve on the lowest point for drain purposes ( lowest point for gold recovery ) The shop vac is not permenantly mounted so it can be removed any time it is needed else where.
 
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5999/11016735.jpg

1) can i make this so that I can
Attach the red pipe to the purple pipe when I melt copper or aluminum and I dont want to use the scrubber.

2) Incenerator
I wanted to make something like Harolds fume hood but I can find asbestos and I have to find an alternative
I have to plan something for that

3) Red galvinzed pipes
When the smoke from the furnace goes into the scrubber.
Does this seem right
will it damage something

4) The reactor idea is from scrapper-aw

If anyone sees any mistakes or has ideas for improvement I would
like to hear from you
Thanks
 
If you are just doing minor incineration, such as what Harold speaks of, it might be OK.

However, major incineration, such as boards, could be a big problem, since there are lots of solids in the smoke and it could gunk up the scrubber in no time. The only time I've seen something similar done was with a guy that was burning x-ray film. He sucked the smoke through water in a series of drums. In a couple of days, there was a crust of stinking stuff, several inches thick, floating on top of the water in each drum. It pretty much stopped the operation.

Unless you have a very large scrubber (say, 6' - 8' dia. x 20' tall), it won't work well at all with open-top acid reaction containers and an open fume hood. You'll have to create a closed system. I assume you're doing this if you're following 4metals instructions.
 
Mexpert,

What are you burning? Electronics or jewelery sweeps? Most incinerators effectively reduce emissions by using an afterburner, scrubbers are designed to scrub chemical fume and if you have dense smoke it is more from particulate and incompletely combusted material.

A hot afterburner re-burns the smoke and completes combustion. If you're burning a lot of material a refractory chimney helps because the refractory can withstand more heat. Successful after-burning requires a secondary burner and a renewed source of oxygen (fresh air) often material smokes because it runs out of oxygen in the primary burn chamber. An afterburner gives it a second chance to burn completely.

For a melting hood try cement board, used behind ceramic tile, instead of asbestos.
 
Hi Gsp and 4metals
Thanks for your valuable help
I will be working with jewelery
I think I will have the smoke from the incenerator and the the smoke from the melting furnace go directly out the window
If there are valuables in the smoke the filter will catch it.

The acid fumes will go into the scrubber.
For a melting hood try cement board, used behind ceramic tile, instead of asbestos
Click to expand...
4metals this idea is very good thanks
 
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=2C863&op=search&Ntt=2C863&N=0&sst=All

I asked this company how I could attach a plastic tube to the inlet and outlet holes and they didnt reply
I thought maybe they would have something ready for this
Does anyone have any ideas
Thanks
 
PreciousMexpert said:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=2C863&op=search&Ntt=2C863&N=0&sst=All

I asked this company how I could attach a plastic tube to the inlet and outlet holes and they didnt reply
I thought maybe they would have something ready for this
Does anyone have any ideas
Thanks
Click to expand...

On the inlet of the blower (the round part) you should be able to find HVAC hard pipe to connect to the fan and then connect your pltic pipe. On the square end You can have a pice fabricate or try a boot ( this is the part above your ceiling that your air register hook up to) It transitions from square to round. These are gpoing to corode.

You can try to find a piece of platic pipe.

You can build a mold out of heavy cardboard that will work and then make a fiberglass piece using it as your mold.

This thing doen't lookd acid resistant i it metal or plastic.
 
Hi Barren Realms 007
Thanks for your help
This model is the one Harold used
It is not acid resistant but Harold took it apart and he painted it with epoxy paint
 
Any idea what the CFM rating of this blower is? Your hood should have 100 cfm for every square foot of opening. That will give you enough exhaust to keep the air flowing away from your face.

The thing you're looking for to adapt a round duct to a square hole is called a transition flange, try US Plastics
 
Hi 4metals
I wrote to the company this morning to ask for that information and they didnt reply.
I wll try again tommorow
It is frustrating to deal with these people.
When you are not in the USA the processing of the order becomes a big deal
 
PreciousMexpert said:
Hi Barren Realms 007
Thanks for your help
This model is the one Harold used
It is not acid resistant but Harold took it apart and he painted it with epoxy paint
Click to expand...

If you can get all the surfaces painted it should last for a while. You might want to set it up where it produces an indirect draft by putting a WYE in your piping and it pulls air fron the hood by a negative pressure. I know this dosen't make sense so if you need to know more I will see what I can do to accomidate you.
 
4metals said:
Any idea what the CFM rating of this blower is? Your hood should have 100 cfm for every square foot of opening. That will give you enough exhaust to keep the air flowing away from your face.

The thing you're looking for to adapt a round duct to a square hole is called a transition flange, try US Plastics
Click to expand...

Is there a formula that gave you this info? Or is it just a rule of thumb that you use. In AC work you want to turn you air flow 5-7 times per hour in a room.
 
Hi Barren Realms 007
Thanks for your help
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5999/11016735.jpg
If you look at this picture I would like to make it like scrapper-aw

It would be a big help if I get more design ideas
Thanks

If you can get all the surfaces painted it should last for a while. You might want to set it up where it produces an indirect draft by putting a WYE in your piping and it pulls air fron the hood by a negative pressure. I know this dosen't make sense so if you need to know more I will see what I can do to accomidate you.
Click to expand...
 
100 CFM per sq ft of opening is a rule of thumb. By the way consider using make up air to minimize removing the air conditioned or heated air from your lab. It's hard to keep a room warm in winter (or cool in summer) when you exhaust thousands of cubic feet per minute.

Us Plastics was only suggested so you can go on line and see one, I'm sure they're available down under as well. It helps to know what they're called and what they look like.
 

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