how to build an acid resistant hood & scrubber _hood_

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Harold_V said:
Barren Realms 007 said:
I was just stoking my fireplace and was staring at the fire and a thought hit me. It has not been mentioned about the possability of using the material in a pireflace insert that looks like concrete to make a fume/inceneration hood. Any one know what kind of material it is?
Click to expand...
A refractory of sorts.

Not a real good idea in that it will respond poorly to acid exposure. If it has Portland cement as part of its make-up, it would be a very poor idea.

Harold
Click to expand...

If money is no object:

http://www.precisioncoating.com/datasheets/PCCI2007E020-RevB.pdf
 
Harold_V said:
Barren Realms 007 said:
I was just stoking my fireplace and was staring at the fire and a thought hit me. It has not been mentioned about the possability of using the material in a pireflace insert that looks like concrete to make a fume/inceneration hood. Any one know what kind of material it is?
Click to expand...
A refractory of sorts.

Not a real good idea in that it will respond poorly to acid exposure. If it has Portland cement as part of its make-up, it would be a very poor idea.

Harold
Click to expand...

I think it will be a refractory because if it were portland cement it would crack under the heat. And yea I know people say they crack but is that because of heat or abuse? I used a fireplace full time in the winter for 4 years and it never cracked because I was careful with putting wood in. I can't say with the one I have now because this is the first year I have used this one. I'll see if I can get hold of the guy that did the inspection on my fire place and ask what it is and if I can get a piece and I will see what acid will do to it.
 
Irons said:
Harold_V said:
Barren Realms 007 said:
I was just stoking my fireplace and was staring at the fire and a thought hit me. It has not been mentioned about the possability of using the material in a pireflace insert that looks like concrete to make a fume/inceneration hood. Any one know what kind of material it is?
Click to expand...
A refractory of sorts.

Not a real good idea in that it will respond poorly to acid exposure. If it has Portland cement as part of its make-up, it would be a very poor idea.

Harold
Click to expand...

If money is no object:

http://www.precisioncoating.com/datasheets/PCCI2007E020-RevB.pdf
Click to expand...

That would work for finishing the joint's.
 
http://img233.imageshack.us/i/25214328.jpg/

I would like to know if the air that goes into the scrubber will
go outside the window or do I need to buy another motor to suck that air to the outside
Thanks
 
Hi 4metals and Barren
Thanks for your help
The green line is for melting and nothing to do with acids so you can forget about it


http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=6211&p=57152&hilit=Scrapper+aw+&sid=0b0e35728be6e5cbc707fbaa356d7eb3#p57152

The idea is to make a system like that of scrapper
The red is for the system where you see the reactors
One pipe with 5 valves directed towards the motor 2 which is the blower
The bad air goes into the motor and then into the scrubber and then outside

The blue is a secondary system in the same fume hood
The bad air goes into the motor and then into the scrubber and then outside

The scrubber is made from a plastic barrel about 4 feet high I think they are about 50 gallons.
I am wondering that once the bad air is forced into the scrubber will it come out of there and go outside or will it just stay there
then I would have to buy another blower

I hope was able to explain well
Thanks again
 
http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=4776
If you look at this picture
the poisonous fumes go into the scrubber without a blower.
here it says that only 1 blower is used
I am wondering if 4metals actually build a system like this or it is hypothetical.
 
Nothing hypothetical about it, 1 blower can draw for both the scrubber and the hood, The catch is the input to the scrubber is limited by the intake manifold so the cfm of the scrubber does not have to be high. The hood and scrubber have to be balanced with the dampers.
 
by having 2 blower motors would you be getting cleaner breathing air in your refining room that is about
12 feet by 12 feet than if you had 1 motor blower
 
One of those industrial type wet-filter vaccuum cleaners is a device worth looking at for sucking and scrubbing. Robot Rainbow was the one I used many years ago, with some modifications and external tanks. Amazing how they pull.
 
Found this link with several brands of equipment. The one I used was not your average home type device but industrial, which was sturdier, bigger. I can't find the exact type right now. I used to put a tank or two with water and soda ash in front, so that the fumes "bubbled" through and basically clean air passed through the vaccuum and was discharged outside, but I think you'll need a different liquid or system for NOxx and or acid scrubbing. I was scrubbing chlorine/chlorides which scrubbed easily. Changed the water weekly for the vaccum, but I wasn't refining that often, only once or twice per week.

http://www.vacuumwizard.com/vacuum-cleaners-with-water-filters.html
 
I tried to find 6 inch pipe but I couldn't so I took 4 inch
I also noticed that my
4 feet high I think they are about 50 gallons.
is not high as described by 4metals
I will probably make another system or modify this one
also I could find a damper to fit into the 4 inch pipe
In the 4metals diagram it is the 5 inch pipe
 
I will be building a scrubber like the picture 4metals posted in the beginning
and the closest material I found to what I can make
is pvc pipe used for ventillation and it is in grey
it is 24 inches in diameter
they are minum of 20 feet
so it is going to cost about 800 dollars
i am going to take a look at it now
can someone tell me if the is suitable
 
Do you have an irragation supply, they usually have a green type pvc pipe in large diameters for water and culvert pipe, which may be cheaper than the gray pvc (which sounds like electrical conduit pvc).
 
A side note about the gray PVC. I was speaking to a guy at Lowes a few weeks back and he told me that the gray PVC gets it's color from lead that is added to the PVC.

Steve
 
lazersteve;

I was just looking at your post about Wonderboard, in that other thread.

Has anyone tried, or have an opinion about, glazed ceramic tile on top of the Wonderboard? I think the tile has already been fired in a kiln to begin with, so it seems like it should stand up to the heat. And the glaze is like glass or silica (for chemical resistance), isn't it? And it would be pretty easy to clean, I think.

The grout for the tile might have problems, though. Both from heat and chemicals.

But the tile part sure seems like it would work out well.
 
Hi Folks
1st Part
115v

overall pump dimensions (inches)
.................... Cord
Height......... 5......... 5
Width.........3.91....... 4
Length........8.12 .......8.77


This is acid resistant and I already bought it and I hope that it will be enough to be used for a fume hood like 4metals has built

2nd part
Also have built the fume hood and the scrubber and maybe in a few days I will be ready to test the system and I am a bit nervous about it because thing can always go wrong but I have tried to copy everything the way 4metals made it so I am optimistic that this will be successful
My question is that how can I test the system without actually doing refining because I would prefer to use something that is not harmful

3rd part
I think this was already asked but I don't know where it is
How do you stop a reaction in case of emergency
I think 4metals said ice
Does Baking soda(Sodium Bicarbonate) stop a AR reaction
Thanks
 

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