Non-Chemical Preparing Metal for Digestion

[goldsilverpro]

I suppose anything could be used, except something that would rust, if it's big enough so the metal has cooled before it comes in contact with anything. Also, the smaller the pieces of metal are, the faster they cool.

 

[PreciousMexpert]

Hi Cris
I didn't think that a bit of rust would be a problem before refining
Wouldnt the acids take care of the rust
Then you cant use plumbing pipes because you have to drill it and it will rust
How about using copper or brass
I have seen these in my hardware or like you said stainless steel would be the best and cover it so molten metal doesn't stick to it

 

[goldsilverpro]

I didn't think that a bit of rust would be a problem before refining
Wouldnt the acids take care of the rust
Then you cant use plumbing pipes because you have to drill it and it will rust
How about using copper or brass
I have seen these in my hardware or like you said stainless steel would be the best and cover it so molten metal doesn't stick to it

I guess you're right, but why add a bunch of iron to the mix? Why not keep it as clean as possible to start with. Rust can build up very quickly in large amounts in a steel tank.

 

[golddie]

how about making the doughnut shape object from copper
I webt to my hardware and they had pipes that were about 3 quarters of an inch.
Not 2 inches like scrapper-aw- said

Also I am thinkg about using a plastic garbage can and attaching the pipe like this picture
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/6973/atomizerz.jpg

I have seen molten silver being pour into cold water in a plastic bucket
I said I can even cover the doughnut shape pipe with plastic in case there is brazing problems

 

[Refiner232121]

Scrapper-aw-

is about 2.5 inches thick, hollow, and about 12 inches in diameter
It provides 750 psi of water pressure per nozzle.

I checked out the hole of a pressure pump suitable for this kind of a job
3000 psi
and it was about a quarter inch hole.

I would say that

3 quarters of an inch copper

golddie

would be ok

 

[Scrapper-aw-]

Sorry for being away for so long......been very busy at work.

There seems to be interest in what our doughnut is made of..... 1/8 inch steel. .....and yes it does rust a little. The solution we found for this is just to run some water through it under pressure untill it runs clear. Our's is four 90* turn pipe pieces welded together. The plan was to duplicate it in 316 Stainless to eliminate the rust problem permenantly. We have bigger fish to fry!

Keep in mind that we are working with amounts large enough that the amount of iron or other contaminants picked up in this step is a fairly inconsequencial amount based on percentages.

I suppose other metals could work.....if the construction could handle the pressure. :mrgreen:

 

[Lou]

You might consider a ceramic piece.

 

[MargueriteMingorance]

I wouldn't use a galvanized (or bare steel or plastic) garbage can. A pin hole in the zinc or a place where the zinc didn't cover well (like where the bottom meets the sides) and you will end up with rust mixed with your metal. The best, of course, is stainless. I've seen people use such things as SS beer kegs with the top cut out, but they're not quite deep enough for my likes. The best I've ever used is a 55 gal SS nitric drum with the top cut out. To buy one of these drums new is prohibitively expensive, but sometimes you can scrounge one, maybe in a scrap yard. Also, you could try to find a scrap dealer that specializes in used SS restaurant equipment - they'll usually have something that will work. No matter what you use, make sure it is deep enough so the metal is not molten when it hits the bottom. If it is molten, like Lou said, you will get instant brazing of the metal to the SS (or, most any other metal). Once the metal sticks to the stainless, things cease to be fun. In most cases, your tank will end up ruined. For standard shot, you can attach 4 long SS wires to a SS colander (pick one with small holes) nearly as wide as the tank, sitting on the bottom, to catch the shot. Makes it a lot easier to remove the shot.

How about a 55 gallon tank for making wine? $699

http://www.bayteccontainers.com/55-gallon-stainless-steel-wine-barrel-stock-tank-.html

Or keep your eye out for a used stainless steel milk tank. This 300 gallon tank sold for $180.

http://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.Item&itemID=783&acctID=565

 

[goldnugget77]

I have made a doughnut shape with plumbing pipes
they are brass and copper and I welded them with lead free solder that I bought from the hardware store
they look like lead solder but it says lead free and it has silver in it
I will test it soon
The only thing I am concerned about is that will this things come apart while I am pouring the gold through it and all the gold gold scattered everywhere.
I dont think that the thicker pipes will come apart because there is plenty of solder but the thing that I am concerned about is the 4 small pipes that are the nozzles they soldered directly on top of the brass pipes(half inch regular plumbing pipes)
These nozzles dont fit into anything they are just soldered
Do you think that this could be problematic
http://img189.imageshack.us/f/83688905.jpg/

 

[qst42know]

What kind of pressure do you intend to run?

You may want to look into the engineering data for the pipe and fittings you are using.

I haven't shopped around but this place has all you would need to assemble this in stainless. Smaller pipe size will have a higher pressure rating but too small will affect your flow rate.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#ansi-specification-pipe-fittings/=a2ji2w


Edited for high pressure fittings.

 

[Barren Realms 007]

The fittings in the picture seem to be crimp on fittings not solder fittings.

 

[Harold_V]

I have seen molten silver being pour into cold water in a plastic bucket

I wonder----did they show the results when the molten silver is poured to quickly, or if too much is poured?
Unless the depth of the container is hugely excessive, pouring molten metal to a container that is sensitive to heat is just plain damned stupid. It's not uncommon for the stream of metal to superheat the water in the near proximity to the point where steam is generated, shielding the molten metal from the water, resulting in molten metal hitting the bottom.

You can pour molten metals, even gold, to a fragile glass container. The question is-----should you?

Harold

 

[goldnugget77]

Hi Harold
I think the water would have to be running that's for sure.


Hi qst42know

750 psi of water pressure per nozzle.

 

[qst42know]

Heavy wall copper water pipe (Type K) is good to only 150psi. I think you may be building a grenade. Without proper spray nozzles to restrict the flow you might not build explosive pressures, but I wouldn't want to be standing over it.

Far better to do it safe than to do it cheap.

McMaster Carr has a wide selection in easy to assemble threaded stainless with safe pressure ratings.

 

[goldnugget77]

Hi qst42know
What you are saying makes sense
The 4 nozzles that are made are small copper pipes that I solder with plumbing solder and I drilled small holes in it
They should screw in there so I don't have any threads holding that piece.
I have already made it so I am saying maybe I should test it but than again it could be dangerous.

 

[golddie]

qst42know
I have been doing research on Mcmasters web site.
These are the items I will need
1) 90 degrees elbows page 9
1 1/2" ( I don't know why they don't have 2 inch wide elbows)

2) Threaded Pipe Nipples and Pipe page 6
2" 2" 6 1/2" Lengths

3) Spray nozzles ( there are a few styles to choose from flat,full cone,hallow cone,square)(which would be the best)
( what would be the best size I think 1/4")

4) Something to attache the hose to the atomizer(I don't have an idea about this
I have already bought the system to spray the water I will check out exactly what the attachment looks like and I will let you know

I will also write the company and see what they say
Thanks

 

[qst42know]

Keep in mind I have not made one of these but I will help as much as I can.

Please excuse the crude drawing.

This is what I had in mind, 3 elbows, 4 tees, 6 nipples, a plug, and an adapter that fits your pressure hose.

Your pump should give some clues as to what ID size to chose. If the hose ID is 3/8" it should be OK for the fittings.

Spray nozzle selection is also based on what your pump can supply. There is such a broad range of spray nozzles (not necessarily in McMaster Carr) you may be best served contacting one of the manufacturers and discussing what you are trying to accomplish.

What is the gallon per minute rating your pump operates at?

 

[Barren Realms 007]

I don't think it will matter but this should be a loop so that the delivery volume will be the same and not have a possability of a pressure or volule drop in the last port. This can be done by adding a union to fit everything together.

 

[qst42know]

I don't suspect that would be a problem unless your pump was unable to deliver the volume the nozzles required. If your pump was able to produce 5gpm at 3000psi and the sum total of your nozzles was 4gpm at 3000psi. I think some back pressure would be necessary to balance what the exits will allow. If your nozzles were to large you would get a feeble spray. I would expect some restriction is necessary for balanced performance.

Am I right in these assumptions?

 

[Barren Realms 007]

Yes you are right in your assumption.

But if you try to deliver too much out of the nozzels you will have a pressure drop on the last nozzel or nozzel's.

Anyone that has delt with a spray rig in farming or a large amount of air flow in a pressurized air system can tell you that. That is the reason for a loop system so you get even deliverance of your product.