Removing Gold From Borax

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The diamond material also will have some form of value. It is not rubbish. Message me and I will explain if you are doing quantity.
 
Wouldn't hot sulfuric acid dissolve the borax residue? From what I've read, I believe that's
what many here use to clean up their "beautiful" buttons & ingots after melting. I've not done this, myself.
Just asking.
 
Crazy simple question who sells borax anyone specific you know wanting to sell his borax with gold and diamonds please help me out I am new to this
 
Hi dtectr!

It's true, a boil in 10% sulphuric will clean the borax off the buttons & ingots, but they are refering to cleaning the borax from the melting dish & crucibles.

I'm trying to find a flourospar supplier in Seattle...
 
Phildreamer, appearantly fieldspar is 60% of the earths crust, I am just not that good at Identifying rocks, maybe Rock Man can help us out.
guess I have been looking for the wrong rock?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feldspar

I would also like to Identify this rock in my area for use as flux.
maybe go looking in the dark with a blue light?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorite
 
philddreamer said:
Hi dtectr!

It's true, a boil in 10% sulphuric will clean the borax off the buttons & ingots, but they are refering to cleaning the borax from the melting dish & crucibles.

I'm trying to find a flourospar supplier in Seattle...
Might have a little better luck with the correct spelling. It's fluorspar, not flourspar.
Hope this helps.

Harold
 
butcher said:
Phildreamer, appearantly fieldspar is 60% of the earths crust, I am just not that good at Identifying rocks, maybe Rock Man can help us out.
guess I have been looking for the wrong rock?
Yep---what you should be looking for is Fluorite

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorite

Harold
 
Harold, you don't have an idea how many times, while searching the net for suppliers, I misspelled the darn thing! :shock:

But finally, I got some from Action Mining; I hope is the right thing, Fluorspar (CALCIUM FLUORIDE). :lol:

Thanks!

Phil
 
philddreamer said:
Harold, you don't have an idea how many times, while searching the net for suppliers, I misspelled the darn thing! :shock:

But finally, I got some from Action Mining; I hope is the right thing, Fluorspar (CALCIUM FLUORIDE). :lol:

Thanks!

Phil
Welcome :!:
I procured a 50 pound bag for my project, those many years ago. It was a strange pink color. Yours?

If memory serves, it's included on the coating of some welding rod---not sure.
Remember, it takes very little to make a difference, and it's very aggressive, dissolving melting dishes (and furnace lining) with a vengeance.

Harold
 
Mine is also a pink/tan. I'm getting ready to try some. I would like to clean 5 dishes that have been loaded with oxides from inquarting & other "fouled"

melts. Thanks for the heads up on the proper amount needed to be used.

Phil
 
That's the mix for old borax in a remelt but for just melting karat gold use 2 parts borax, 1 part soda ash, and 1 part flourospar. That will make a nice fluid flux that shouldn't hold up your beads. Check into cone molds they're not too expensive, check out Legend in Sparks Nevada they have them. aoa体育网页版·(中国)官方网站

I have also seen cone molds homemade by welding 4 triangles of steel into an inverted pyramid, never used one but it should work. Anybody made one?
I have # roughnrowdywelding
 
That's the mix for old borax in a remelt but for just melting karat gold use 2 parts borax, 1 part soda ash, and 1 part flourospar. That will make a nice fluid flux that shouldn't hold up your beads. Check into cone molds they're not too expensive, check out Legend in Sparks Nevada they have them. aoa体育网页版·(中国)官方网站

I have also seen cone molds homemade by welding 4 triangles of steel into an inverted pyramid, never used one but it should work. Anybody made one?
I use the upside down pyramid welded triangles and it works great .. angle iron some peg legs as well so it free stands
# Rough n rowdy welding
Dayton ohio
 
The real question to be asked is why do you have fine prills in the slag in the first place.
The answer is that the prills have a base metal coating which stops them from pooling.
The coating has a thickness of only angstroms and is usually not detectable by optical methods but is enough to prevent cyanide and aqua regia leaches attacking the gold prills and also to prevent the gold fraction of the pills from pooling.
The majority of the prills themselves are in the micron to sub micron diameter, many of them are visible with strong optical methods but many are very difficult to detect this way.
Repeated firings of the slag will slowly erode this coating but the finer prills require multiple firings to remove the coating.
If you have gone down the multicomponent slag route then the easiest way to remove the coatings is to fine mill the slag and put it in a warm bath of 20% hydrochloric acid.
If you heat the bath then it will take days to remove the coating, if you have it sitting in a capped pail at room temperature it will take months to remove the coating but you will not be paying for heating.
When fire assays were developed centuries ago there was a need for multicomponent fluxes to deal with the complex ore components.
If you are dealing with relatively clean material such as jewellery you get no gain by using any flux apart from borax.
This gives you the advantage of only having to deal with borax slag and the metal borates formed in the smelt, the
hydrochloric acid trick works much more quickly under these circumstances.
Deano
 
There is much confusion about borax, mostly because it comes anhydrous and is called borax glass, and it also comes with "10 waters" which is what is sold as a laundry soap, it's referred to as Borax as well but it is almost half water by weight Na2B4O7 . 10 H2O.

Bottom line is after about 760 C the waters are gone and it's all borax glass. On its way to becoming dehydrated, it swells and can overflow your crucible, that is why borax glass is best. But after it has seen the heat it's all the same.
Completely agree 👍
 
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