Vinegar- 5$ per liter, 35% H2O2- 60$ per liter, safety- some extra for 302-304 stainless. They even make beakers............This should give you a very good answer. If you want to use peracetic acid instead of nitric/HCl, for the purpose of what you want to do with them, it will not work better.
1. it will be slow from beginning - acetic and peracetic acids are WEAK acids, dissolution will be slow compared to mineral acids like HCl, sulfuric or nitric acids.
2. these reactions are unefficient hence the catalytic decomposition of the peroxide bond in either PAA and hydrogen peroxide - peroxidic bond = oxidizer is spent without effect. This worsen with temperature and metal content in the pot.
3. peracetic and acetic acid as organic acids will f**k up many types of plastics (PE and PP are mostly resistant, but some types will swell over time) and will likely go through the ANY easily obtainable commercial gloves.
Many manufacturers will proudly say that their products stay intact and acid will not go through. It is very easy to test, hence acetic acid could be "analysed" with your nose in ppm concentrations just put on the gloves, drop some acid on them, wait few minutes, get it off your hand and then smell your fingers
And the peroxide part in the PAA will get fun time epoxidizing every unsaturated bond in the rubber/nitrile developing cracks, losing flexibility...
4. as it would be unefficient, it will be EXPENSIVE to use PAA as substitute for cheap and stable acids like nitric or hydrochloric.
5. as an organic acid and very good solvent, it will likely dissolve all kinds of resins, glues, certain plastics and paints. If you apply this to material with these things, they will dissolve into the solution. I dont want to imagine rinsing these residues out of any product I will obtain with this method. Slightest contact with water will cause back-precipitation of these resin/paint/glue residues as sticky water-repelling mess try to dissolve some polystyrene in acetone and then dump it into the water
It means that every product you will get from impure starting materials will need to be washed with ORGANIC SOLVENT before water. Additional cost and waste created.
6. if you are not fan of vinegar smell overall, than good luck with higher concentrations PAA is even worse, penetrating smell get all over the place... from organic stuff still one of the "milder" chemicals tho.
I dont say you cannot get used to it (as I am from years of working with all kinds of funky chemicals).
If nitrogen oxides are issue for you, then you could process material with HCl/oxygen. Or use nitric with addition of hydrogen peroxide. Nitrogen oxides will be oxidized back to nitric acid, regenerating your stuff and producing only minute ammounts of brown gas
For copper, diluted sulfuric acid with adition of hydrogen peroxide will also do the job. No fumes will come out except some oxygen. Practically speaking, you could buy peroxodisulfate for etching PCB boards. Very similar outcome, but i dont think this would be cost efficient.
And if all stated chemicals here get you nervous, then you can smelt your material down and electrorefine it.
?????????????????????NOT PROFITABLE????????????????????????????
This stuff chewed apart brass with a few mils. You just don't wanna throw it all in to lose efficiency. All those other chemicals are heavily expensive, require proper control (emissions) Refer to NIOSH guide of NO2- No ppm acceptable under (x) timeframe.
But honestly thanks for the part on efficiency. Duly noted.
You gotta have better reasons than those to diverge my interest in this process with this solution...... If anything you just enhanced my excitement lmao.
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