PLEASE I NEED HELP ITS REALY S.O.S

[4metals]

You have used way too much acid. The gold foils coming off of the fingers of 535 grams of cards will be only a few grams. What you should have done is covered the foils with a few Cm of Hydrochloric Acid and then slowly in 5 Ml increments added the Nitric Acid until the Nitric additions no longer caused a reaction and all of the foils were dissolved. Had you done what I just said you would have had very little excess nitric acid to deal with as that small amount of foils did not require much nitric acid.

You have a large excess of nitric to deal with. And you do not have a lot of gold in solution to recover. Question for some of our more experienced AP processors, how many grams of foils would you expect from 535 grams of fingers?

If you were to use sulfamic acid you would need about a pound of the powdered acid, dissolved in hot water and added. If you were to use urea, you should add urea prills to a 5 gallon bucket and pour the acid slowly on to the urea. It will foam wildly but in a 5 gallon pail that is almost empty you should not foam over. Have a spray nozzle available to spray down any foam that approaches the rim. When all of the acid is in the pail with the urea, try a small addition of urea to see if it still fizzes. If it doesn't it is ready to drop the gold. Since you are dropping gold from gold foils, there are no PGM's to worry about the urea effecting any further drops. This is not a preferred method but seeing as you added such an excessive quantity of nitric acid you need an extreme solution. Do not allow the solution with the gold dropped to sit around and cool off, the quantity of urea you added will crystallize out and mix with the dropped gold, filter it before it starts to crystallize.

Some members might suggest cementing everything on copper, the copper will dissolve, eat up the acid and drop out the gold. The reason I did not mention this is you will be looking for very little gold and you could lose some by having it adhere to the copper that didn't dissolve when the nitric acid was completely used up. If there was a lot of gold in there, this is what I would do, but for a few grams it isn't.

You still need stannous to test the solution for completeness of your gold precipitation.

 

[goldsilverpro]

From my calculations, i figured that you had about 95 grams total weight of gold, copper, and nickel on the fingers. That would take about 400 ml of aqua regia to dissolve the metals - say, 320 ml of HCl and 80 ml of nitric. You added 700 ml of HCl and 370ml of nitric. The extra 380 ml of HCl won't cause any problems, but the extra 290 ml of nitric will cause big problems. As long as this extra nitric is there, the SMB won't drop the gold. So, you somehow must get rid of this nitric before dropping the gold.

There are basically 5 methods of getting rid of excess nitric. You should have studied everything on this post before attempting to process that material. I'll let someone else give you the details. I don't have much experience with these because I can't remember using too much nitric during the last 30 years.
(1) With small amounts of nitric, SMB will decompose and eliminate it. However, a toxic nasty gas, SO2 will be released and, for 290 ml of nitric, it will take a lot of SMB. In this case, I wouldn't recommend this.
(2) Urea will work best on small amounts of nitric. With larger amounts, such as you have, I've always had crystals of urea nitrite form in the solution. These crystals are difficult to work around and there's the possibility of them being explosive under certain conditions.
(3) Sulfamic acid will eliminate the nitric but, for 290 ml, it will take about 1 pound. There are a lot of people here with sulfamic acid experience.
(4) Evaporation. This involves evaporating to nearly a syrup, adding a little HCl, evaporating, adding HCl, evaporating - repeat a couple more times. Then dilute, filter, drop the gold.
(5) This is actually starting over. You add copper metal to the solution until the nitric is used up and the gold has cemented out on the copper remainiing.

When using aqua regia, it is best to cover the material with HCl only and heat it to about 60C. Then, add a small amount of nitric acid - in this case about 15 ml. Allow the reaction to proceed. When the reaction slows considerably or stops, add another increment of nitric. Repeat until an addition of nitric produces no reaction. Don't add anymore nitric. Everything at this point should be dissolved. Using this method, no excess nitric is used and, therefore, the SMB will immediately drop the gold with no problems.

Actually, if I were going to use HCl and nitric on fingers, I would first dissolve all the copper and nickel using only nitric and water, in a 50:50 mix. When all the copper and nickel was dissolved, I would then remove the solution by filtering or decanting, rinse a few times with water, and return all the solids to the beaker. I would then cover the solids with HCl, heat, and go through the nitric additions method outlined above.

 

[ALON 1969]

From my calculations, i figured that you had about 95 grams total weight of gold, copper, and nickel on the fingers. That would take about 400 ml of aqua regia to dissolve the metals - say, 320 ml of HCl and 80 ml of nitric. You added 700 ml of HCl and 370ml of nitric. The extra 380 ml of HCl won't cause any problems, but the extra 290 ml of nitric will cause big problems. As long as this extra nitric is there, the SMB won't drop the gold. So, you somehow must get rid of this nitric before dropping the gold.

There are basically 5 methods of getting rid of excess nitric. You should have studied everything on this post before attempting to process that material. I'll let someone else give you the details. I don't have much experience with these because I can't remember using too much nitric during the last 30 years.
(1) With small amounts of nitric, SMB will decompose and eliminate it. However, a toxic nasty gas, SO2 will be released and, for 290 ml of nitric, it will take a lot of SMB. In this case, I wouldn't recommend this.
(2) Urea will work best on small amounts of nitric. With larger amounts, such as you have, I've always had crystals of urea nitrite form in the solution. These crystals are difficult to work around and there's the possibility of them being explosive under certain conditions.
(3) Sulfamic acid will eliminate the nitric but, for 290 ml, it will take about 1 pound. There are a lot of people here with sulfamic acid experience.
(4) Evaporation. This involves evaporating to nearly a syrup, adding a little HCl, evaporating, adding HCl, evaporating - repeat a couple more times. Then dilute, filter, drop the gold.
(5) This is actually starting over. You add copper metal to the solution until the nitric is used up and the gold has cemented out on the copper remainiing.

When using aqua regia, it is best to cover the material with HCl only and heat it to about 60C. Then, add a small amount of nitric acid - in this case about 15 ml. Allow the reaction to proceed. When the reaction slows considerably or stops, add another increment of nitric. Repeat until an addition of nitric produces no reaction. Don't add anymore nitric. Everything at this point should be dissolved. Using this method, no excess nitric is used and, therefore, the SMB will immediately drop the gold with no problems.

Actually, if I were going to use HCl and nitric on fingers, I would first dissolve all the copper and nickel using only nitric and water, in a 50:50 mix. When all the copper and nickel was dissolved, I would then remove the solution by filtering or decanting, rinse a few times with water, and return all the solids to the beaker. I would then cover the solids with HCl, heat, and go through the nitric additions method outlined above.

lot of thanks dear friend you help me lot.....please tell me what you offer to me ? i dont have any experians this is my first gold refine proses...are the sulfamic is the best way to me to do it? and after i eliminate the nitric acid i drop the gold with s.m.b? if i want to eliminate the nitric acid how much s.m.b i will need in grams? lot of thanks for helping me and for responding..thanks

 

[ALON 1969]

please if i understod corect that i could solve the problem with lot of s.m.b how much grams i will need and how ill do that?? thanks for respon and helping me

 

[Topher_osAUrus]

please if i understod corect that i could solve the problem with lot of s.m.b how much grams i will need and how ill do that?? thanks for respon and helping me

Sulfamic acid. 1 pound into hot water. Affer dissolving crystal in water. Add to your AR.

Filter to remove lead sulfate.

Add amount of s.m.b. you expect gold to drop, plus a bit extra.
By a bit, i mean a gram or 2, NOT pound or two.
I.E. 5g Au = 5g-7g s.m.b.

Sulfamic acid is a crystal form acid used to clean tile grout.

 

[4metals]

Urea will form the red cloud which we all know enough to avoid. Sulfamic forms a clear cloud of nitrous oxide. This man is working without a hood to get the fume up and away. I personally would rather see my enemy!

 

[g_axelsson]

With that excessive amount of acids used I would use evaporation, it would bring down the volume and not add a lot of extra salts to complicate matters.

I would expect around 3 g of gold, with the copper already removed with copper chloride it was only gold foils left... the amount of acid used was over 100 times of what was really needed.

Göran

 

[goldsilverpro]

Read this thread. You must do some of the work yourself.

http://goldrefiningforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=23767&hilit=sulfamic+acid&start=0

 

[solar_plasma]

I see the biggest problem in the fact that he continously translates the answers wrongly. He isn't able to understand, what we are telling him.

This is a dangerous blend!

First of all you need to learn english!!! Read Hoke, read Library and you will obtain both language skills and refining knowledge.

 

[butcher]

There are a couple of way I would deal with this, cover and save the solution in a safe location and study (probably the best way).

You could also dissolve more gold or foils in it, and, or evaporated it down (a waste of acid as dangerous gases), you can do both. Evaporating to drive off water, then the nitric acid with heat (do not boil). When solution is very concentrated add just enough HCl to keep the solution liquid. You do not want to evaporate all of the liquid to salts. With as much sulfuric acid as you used I doubt you will have any problems with this mess, (way too much acid). The HCl addition may make a red cloud when added, an indication you still have free nitric acid. Continue to evaporate bring the solution to concentrated liquid (almost syrup) again, repeat the small HCl addition (just to keep wet), evaporate off that HCl addition, Note if you were dissolving more gold or foils into solution it will be using up the acid as you concentrate the solution...

Test a drop of the solution with stannous chloride SnCl2 (you can make this testing solution yourself with 95 percent tin metal and HCl acid) study it on the forum...

Note if you have too much nitric acid in solution this test will not work, for the test to work it must reduce the gold to gold metal colloids (the purple color of the test), too much nitric acid will keep the gold from making the metal gold that gives the test its purple color. After you eliminate the free nitric acid you should see the purple of Cassius color of the positive test for gold (as long as there is gold dissolved in solution).

After eliminating the free nitric acid. At this point you can recover your gold , sulfamic acid can be used (if needed), but if you follow instruction this far you should have eliminated the free nitric acid. The stannous test is not only a good indication of gold in solution, but it can also be helpful in indications of too much free nitric acid left in solution. Here you can use SMB to precipitate your gold, or a use a clean thick bar of copper to cement the gold...


Put the waste solutions in a plastic bucket and add the bar of copper. This will collect any values you missed, if it makes a black powder save it, that is some of your gold. Separate any black power and save it. With the barren solution, add a sheet of steel or iron, some of this iron will dissolve into solution, and the copper will come out of solution as metal, (save the copper), after no more copper comes out of solution, (saturated with iron), decant the solution, and add a base (or caustic solution) to it, (carefully), sodium hydroxide works well, (but is very reactive so if you use it, add it slowly and carefully so as not to create a foam over or violent reactions, or heating the bucket up too much...), lime, powdered lime stone or some other bases will work, (see dealing with waste in the safety section for details). The goal here is to bring the pH up to around 9 where most of the dangerous metals will form hydroxides, and settle of solution. Let it settle and decant the solution, dry out sludge as you collect them. Then add acid in very small amounts back to the solution, until you get it to a pH 7 neutral, some metal can precipitate again decant the salt water and safely dispose of, it can still kill plants or harm fish, or harm a septic tank... pH paper will work or you can use pH indicator solutions, digital pH meters can be found for reasonable price and are well worth the purchase...

Once you get out of this mess, and get the few dollars of gold back. Put away your dangerous chemicals at this point all your going to do with them is lose your gold and make toxic and deadly messes.and hurt yourself or others. this is not child's play. Go to the safety section and study. Download Hokes book and study. Study the forum...

You do not get gold by mixing acids and metals with no clue of what is happening, or by melting rock with no idea of the dangers, playing chemist with no clue of what can happen, that would just be stupid and dangerous, an accident waiting to happen.

You are wanting to learn a profession, this is not just a read a few things a do it, or something a friend can tell you how it works and you can do it. This profession of precious metal recovery and refining like other professions will take work and time to learn. many things besides chemistry is involved here,as you may already have some idea of chemistry can easily create explosive mixes, dangerous or deadly gases or solution, this is not child's play. do not act like a child trying things you really do not understand the dangers of...
This is not something you are going to learn by asking a million questions, like many professions you will need to learn the basic principles, you will need to understand the dangers. you have to spend time like an apprentice studying. even before practicing what you are studying.
You do not give a small child a tool box and a cutting torch and tell him to have fun fixing your new car, or show him a video and turn him loose on your car with a lit cutting torch. He will have to spend some time learning before he will be able to fix your car, if he is interested in learning and spends time to learn that profession he will make a good mechanic in the future.
My purpose is to help you, some of the way I try to do that is to try to get you to understand some of the dangers. and get you to see that dumping acid on metals is just plain foolish unless you have some idea of what your doing, you are putting yourself and others in extreme danger, a few dollars of gold is not worth your health, or someones life, would you trade your eyesight for couple of grams of gold? if so I bet the world if full of blind men who will be willing to buy your eyeballs, I just bet they will pay much more in gold than what you have in your beakers right now...

Welcome to the forum, if you are serious about learning these professional skills you have found the best place possible. If you are willing to spend the time to learn it. If you are not serious about spending years learning, I suggest you just put up the acids. Maybe just buy and sell your scrap and gold, (where you will also need to study to get good at). There is just too much to this art and skill, it is also just too dangerous to fool around with, if you are not truly serious. or serious enough to educate yourself in the field.

If you are serious the skills can take years to learn, but the education can be more valuable than the metals you collect while learning. Like other professions you can spend lifetimes learning more about this, and will never learn it all. That way we are always adding more value to our education, it remains interesting, and you continue on your quest to learn more, which can help you to add value to that pot of gold.
PLEASE I NEED HELP ITS REALY S.O.S
SOS -----------Stop Overlooking Safety
Hope this helps.

 

[ALON 1969]

hello dear friends..lot of thanks for helping me.i had an importent lesson..ill read and read again until i will know exectly what to do..lot of thanks dear friends..if ill have a problem or somthing that i dont anderstand ill post it here..the best forum..thanks

 

[ALON 1969]

There are a couple of way I would deal with this, cover and save the solution in a safe location and study (probably the best way).

You could also dissolve more gold or foils in it, and, or evaporated it down (a waste of acid as dangerous gases), you can do both. Evaporating to drive off water, then the nitric acid with heat (do not boil). When solution is very concentrated add just enough HCl to keep the solution liquid. You do not want to evaporate all of the liquid to salts. With as much sulfuric acid as you used I doubt you will have any problems with this mess, (way too much acid). The HCl addition may make a red cloud when added, an indication you still have free nitric acid. Continue to evaporate bring the solution to concentrated liquid (almost syrup) again, repeat the small HCl addition (just to keep wet), evaporate off that HCl addition, Note if you were dissolving more gold or foils into solution it will be using up the acid as you concentrate the solution...

Test a drop of the solution with stannous chloride SnCl2 (you can make this testing solution yourself with 95 percent tin metal and HCl acid) study it on the forum...

Note if you have too much nitric acid in solution this test will not work, for the test to work it must reduce the gold to gold metal colloids (the purple color of the test), too much nitric acid will keep the gold from making the metal gold that gives the test its purple color. After you eliminate the free nitric acid you should see the purple of Cassius color of the positive test for gold (as long as there is gold dissolved in solution).

After eliminating the free nitric acid. At this point you can recover your gold , sulfamic acid can be used (if needed), but if you follow instruction this far you should have eliminated the free nitric acid. The stannous test is not only a good indication of gold in solution, but it can also be helpful in indications of too much free nitric acid left in solution. Here you can use SMB to precipitate your gold, or a use a clean thick bar of copper to cement the gold...


Put the waste solutions in a plastic bucket and add the bar of copper. This will collect any values you missed, if it makes a black powder save it, that is some of your gold. Separate any black power and save it. With the barren solution, add a sheet of steel or iron, some of this iron will dissolve into solution, and the copper will come out of solution as metal, (save the copper), after no more copper comes out of solution, (saturated with iron), decant the solution, and add a base (or caustic solution) to it, (carefully), sodium hydroxide works well, (but is very reactive so if you use it, add it slowly and carefully so as not to create a foam over or violent reactions, or heating the bucket up too much...), lime, powdered lime stone or some other bases will work, (see dealing with waste in the safety section for details). The goal here is to bring the pH up to around 9 where most of the dangerous metals will form hydroxides, and settle of solution. Let it settle and decant the solution, dry out sludge as you collect them. Then add acid in very small amounts back to the solution, until you get it to a pH 7 neutral, some metal can precipitate again decant the salt water and safely dispose of, it can still kill plants or harm fish, or harm a septic tank... pH paper will work or you can use pH indicator solutions, digital pH meters can be found for reasonable price and are well worth the purchase...

Once you get out of this mess, and get the few dollars of gold back. Put away your dangerous chemicals at this point all your going to do with them is lose your gold and make toxic and deadly messes.and hurt yourself or others. this is not child's play. Go to the safety section and study. Download Hokes book and study. Study the forum...

You do not get gold by mixing acids and metals with no clue of what is happening, or by melting rock with no idea of the dangers, playing chemist with no clue of what can happen, that would just be stupid and dangerous, an accident waiting to happen.

You are wanting to learn a profession, this is not just a read a few things a do it, or something a friend can tell you how it works and you can do it. This profession of precious metal recovery and refining like other professions will take work and time to learn. many things besides chemistry is involved here,as you may already have some idea of chemistry can easily create explosive mixes, dangerous or deadly gases or solution, this is not child's play. do not act like a child trying things you really do not understand the dangers of...
This is not something you are going to learn by asking a million questions, like many professions you will need to learn the basic principles, you will need to understand the dangers. you have to spend time like an apprentice studying. even before practicing what you are studying.
You do not give a small child a tool box and a cutting torch and tell him to have fun fixing your new car, or show him a video and turn him loose on your car with a lit cutting torch. He will have to spend some time learning before he will be able to fix your car, if he is interested in learning and spends time to learn that profession he will make a good mechanic in the future.
My purpose is to help you, some of the way I try to do that is to try to get you to understand some of the dangers. and get you to see that dumping acid on metals is just plain foolish unless you have some idea of what your doing, you are putting yourself and others in extreme danger, a few dollars of gold is not worth your health, or someones life, would you trade your eyesight for couple of grams of gold? if so I bet the world if full of blind men who will be willing to buy your eyeballs, I just bet they will pay much more in gold than what you have in your beakers right now...

Welcome to the forum, if you are serious about learning these professional skills you have found the best place possible. If you are willing to spend the time to learn it. If you are not serious about spending years learning, I suggest you just put up the acids. Maybe just buy and sell your scrap and gold, (where you will also need to study to get good at). There is just too much to this art and skill, it is also just too dangerous to fool around with, if you are not truly serious. or serious enough to educate yourself in the field.

If you are serious the skills can take years to learn, but the education can be more valuable than the metals you collect while learning. Like other professions you can spend lifetimes learning more about this, and will never learn it all. That way we are always adding more value to our education, it remains interesting, and you continue on your quest to learn more, which can help you to add value to that pot of gold.
PLEASE I NEED HELP ITS REALY S.O.S
SOS -----------Stop Overlooking Safety
Hope this helps.

lot of thanks dear friend for your very good respond and that you spend your time to help me and give me lot informatoins im thankfull to you..i ecsept your and other friend like goran to use the evaporate optoin..ill start it now on low\medum heat..i put all the solutoin 1200 ml on 3 liter beaker and left it for evaporateing..ill do exectly what you and goran told me to do..after cupel time that ill add hc acid and ill see that no reactoin any mor ill let it cool filter it with buchner funnel and ill add 2-3 tea spoon of s.m.b to drop the gold..am i corect?? can i cool the solutoin wit ice mad from tap water?..thanks for your respond

 

[autumnwillow]

lot of thanks dear friend for your very good respond and that you spend your time to help me and give me lot informatoins im thankfull to you..i ecsept your and other friend like goran to use the evaporate optoin..ill start it now on low\medum heat..i put all the solutoin 1200 ml on 3 liter beaker and left it for evaporateing..ill do exectly what you and goran told me to do..after cupel time that ill add hc acid and ill see that no reactoin any mor ill let it cool filter it with buchner funnel and ill add 2-3 tea spoon of s.m.b to drop the gold..am i corect?? can i cool the solutoin wit ice mad from tap water?..thanks for your respond

Evaporate at low heat.
Dilute three times its current volume.
Add ice made from distilled water.
Drop with SMB. Do not mix, just wait a few minutes. Repeat until the top solution is clear.
Let it settle overnight or until the top liquid is clear.
Remove the liquid, gold should now be at the bottom.
Wash with cold HCL until no color change.
Wash with boiling distilled water three times.
Dry.
Melt with a pinch of borax.

These steps are specific to your current situation only.

*I am assuming your solution is clear already. If there is any precipitate before SMB, add sulfuric acid and re-filter.

 

[ALON 1969]

There are a couple of way I would deal with this, cover and save the solution in a safe location and study (probably the best way).

You could also dissolve more gold or foils in it, and, or evaporated it down (a waste of acid as dangerous gases), you can do both. Evaporating to drive off water, then the nitric acid with heat (do not boil). When solution is very concentrated add just enough HCl to keep the solution liquid. You do not want to evaporate all of the liquid to salts. With as much sulfuric acid as you used I doubt you will have any problems with this mess, (way too much acid). The HCl addition may make a red cloud when added, an indication you still have free nitric acid. Continue to evaporate bring the solution to concentrated liquid (almost syrup) again, repeat the small HCl addition (just to keep wet), evaporate off that HCl addition, Note if you were dissolving more gold or foils into solution it will be using up the acid as you concentrate the solution...

Test a drop of the solution with stannous chloride SnCl2 (you can make this testing solution yourself with 95 percent tin metal and HCl acid) study it on the forum...

Note if you have too much nitric acid in solution this test will not work, for the test to work it must reduce the gold to gold metal colloids (the purple color of the test), too much nitric acid will keep the gold from making the metal gold that gives the test its purple color. After you eliminate the free nitric acid you should see the purple of Cassius color of the positive test for gold (as long as there is gold dissolved in solution).

After eliminating the free nitric acid. At this point you can recover your gold , sulfamic acid can be used (if needed), but if you follow instruction this far you should have eliminated the free nitric acid. The stannous test is not only a good indication of gold in solution, but it can also be helpful in indications of too much free nitric acid left in solution. Here you can use SMB to precipitate your gold, or a use a clean thick bar of copper to cement the gold...


Put the waste solutions in a plastic bucket and add the bar of copper. This will collect any values you missed, if it makes a black powder save it, that is some of your gold. Separate any black power and save it. With the barren solution, add a sheet of steel or iron, some of this iron will dissolve into solution, and the copper will come out of solution as metal, (save the copper), after no more copper comes out of solution, (saturated with iron), decant the solution, and add a base (or caustic solution) to it, (carefully), sodium hydroxide works well, (but is very reactive so if you use it, add it slowly and carefully so as not to create a foam over or violent reactions, or heating the bucket up too much...), lime, powdered lime stone or some other bases will work, (see dealing with waste in the safety section for details). The goal here is to bring the pH up to around 9 where most of the dangerous metals will form hydroxides, and settle of solution. Let it settle and decant the solution, dry out sludge as you collect them. Then add acid in very small amounts back to the solution, until you get it to a pH 7 neutral, some metal can precipitate again decant the salt water and safely dispose of, it can still kill plants or harm fish, or harm a septic tank... pH paper will work or you can use pH indicator solutions, digital pH meters can be found for reasonable price and are well worth the purchase...

Once you get out of this mess, and get the few dollars of gold back. Put away your dangerous chemicals at this point all your going to do with them is lose your gold and make toxic and deadly messes.and hurt yourself or others. this is not child's play. Go to the safety section and study. Download Hokes book and study. Study the forum...

You do not get gold by mixing acids and metals with no clue of what is happening, or by melting rock with no idea of the dangers, playing chemist with no clue of what can happen, that would just be stupid and dangerous, an accident waiting to happen.

You are wanting to learn a profession, this is not just a read a few things a do it, or something a friend can tell you how it works and you can do it. This profession of precious metal recovery and refining like other professions will take work and time to learn. many things besides chemistry is involved here,as you may already have some idea of chemistry can easily create explosive mixes, dangerous or deadly gases or solution, this is not child's play. do not act like a child trying things you really do not understand the dangers of...
This is not something you are going to learn by asking a million questions, like many professions you will need to learn the basic principles, you will need to understand the dangers. you have to spend time like an apprentice studying. even before practicing what you are studying.
You do not give a small child a tool box and a cutting torch and tell him to have fun fixing your new car, or show him a video and turn him loose on your car with a lit cutting torch. He will have to spend some time learning before he will be able to fix your car, if he is interested in learning and spends time to learn that profession he will make a good mechanic in the future.
My purpose is to help you, some of the way I try to do that is to try to get you to understand some of the dangers. and get you to see that dumping acid on metals is just plain foolish unless you have some idea of what your doing, you are putting yourself and others in extreme danger, a few dollars of gold is not worth your health, or someones life, would you trade your eyesight for couple of grams of gold? if so I bet the world if full of blind men who will be willing to buy your eyeballs, I just bet they will pay much more in gold than what you have in your beakers right now...

Welcome to the forum, if you are serious about learning these professional skills you have found the best place possible. If you are willing to spend the time to learn it. If you are not serious about spending years learning, I suggest you just put up the acids. Maybe just buy and sell your scrap and gold, (where you will also need to study to get good at). There is just too much to this art and skill, it is also just too dangerous to fool around with, if you are not truly serious. or serious enough to educate yourself in the field.

If you are serious the skills can take years to learn, but the education can be more valuable than the metals you collect while learning. Like other professions you can spend lifetimes learning more about this, and will never learn it all. That way we are always adding more value to our education, it remains interesting, and you continue on your quest to learn more, which can help you to add value to that pot of gold.
PLEASE I NEED HELP ITS REALY S.O.S
SOS -----------Stop Overlooking Safety
Hope this helps.

lot of thanks dear frend you help me and im thankfull to you and to goran and to all the members that helped me

 

[butcher]

ALON 1969
I like your attitude, keep studying my friend, that time will not be wasted, you can learn to find, collect, and prepare your scrap in the mean time, and you will get the most from your work.

Educating yourself is the treasure map to that gold, work on the treasure map and finding your gold becomes easier.

 

[ALON 1969]

ALON 1969
I like your attitude, keep studying my friend, that time will not be wasted, you can learn to find, collect, and prepare your scrap in the mean time, and you will get the most from your work.

Educating yourself is the treasure map to that gold, work on the treasure map and finding your gold becomes easier.

thanks ill do that dear friend..you are very nice person..god bless you as well

 

[ALON 1969]

lot of thanks dear friend for your very good respond and that you spend your time to help me and give me lot informatoins im thankfull to you..i ecsept your and other friend like goran to use the evaporate optoin..ill start it now on low\medum heat..i put all the solutoin 1200 ml on 3 liter beaker and left it for evaporateing..ill do exectly what you and goran told me to do..after cupel time that ill add hc acid and ill see that no reactoin any mor ill let it cool filter it with buchner funnel and ill add 2-3 tea spoon of s.m.b to drop the gold..am i corect?? can i cool the solutoin wit ice mad from tap water?..thanks for your respond

Evaporate at low heat.
Dilute three times its current volume.
Add ice made from distilled water.
Drop with SMB. Do not mix, just wait a few minutes. Repeat until the top solution is clear.
Let it settle overnight or until the top liquid is clear.
Remove the liquid, gold should now be at the bottom.
Wash with cold HCL until no color change.
Wash with boiling distilled water three times.
Dry.
Melt with a pinch of borax.

These steps are specific to your current situation only.

*I am assuming your solution is clear already. If there is any precipitate before SMB, add sulfuric acid and re-filter.

you told me to "Dilute three times its current volume." with H.C or with distiled water?

 

[ALON 1969]

Hi Alon!
VERY IMPORTANT! The respirator you have will not protect you from the red nitric fumes! No respirator will. Make sure the wind is blowing from your left or right side so you don't get any fumes!
artart47.

thanks for this importent information..i want to ask you please if ill use a meilitery musck you know this musck its against chimeist bomb and biologic bomb..are this musck will be good until ill get my fume hood?..thanks for your respond

 

[Topher_osAUrus]

He meant to dilute your AR solution - AFTER you have removed all nitric from it.

So, add 3 times the amount of water as you have auric chloride.

Again, ONLY AFTER you have evaporated 3 times...maybe even 4 (to be determined by amount of NO2 red cloud that comes from adding HCl to the concentrated syrup)

THEN, add your 5 grams of SMB

But, you should really add a few ml of sulfuric acid while evaporating.

It will help prevent a crust from forming, also, it will make lead precipitate as insoluble lead sulfate. Which should be filtered out BEFORE adding Smb

Hokes book will give you all these guidelines and steps.

Best of luck

 

[ALON 1969]

He meant to dilute your AR solution - AFTER you have removed all nitric from it.

So, add 3 times the amount of water as you have auric chloride.

Again, ONLY AFTER you have evaporated 3 times...maybe even 4 (to be determined by amount of NO2 red cloud that comes from adding HCl to the concentrated syrup)

THEN, add your 5 grams of SMB

But, you should really add a few ml of sulfuric acid while evaporating.

It will help prevent a crust from forming, also, it will make lead precipitate as insoluble lead sulfate. Which should be filtered out BEFORE adding Smb

Hokes book will give you all these guidelines and steps.

Best of luck

thank you very much dear friend..if i added already about 25-30ml of sulfuric acid when the first A.R wass cool i have to add some mor?